Mustang ii control arm install and torque help
 

Mustang ii control arm help?? So my kit didnt come with instructions ...online instructions say to torque to 55 to 85 or even 90ft lbs. And then some say 120lbs once on the ground.....I'm nowhere near 90lbs and if I keep going my nut gets past the point where the cutter key is functional.....and my rubber seals definelty are gaping and not holding grease when I dont have it tightened down.....do i use more spacers so i can still use cotter pin? And do you really tighten down that hard on the rubber seals?? ..I had been advised before to use the large spacer on the bottom and small on top...thanks for any insight

Re: Mustang ii control arm install and torque help
 

In all my years of doing front end work I don't think I ever torqued a ball joint or tie rod end. I used a correct size standard length end wrench most of the time, put my weight into it and then tightened it to where the hole lined up with a slot.

If the tapers are correct the stud should only go so far into the spindle and no further.

I'm not sure that my old Chiltons that I used for front end specs for years has the torque specs for Pintos/ MII or not.

Re: Mustang ii control arm install and torque help
 

Haha yeah that's what my dad said. But I can easily tighten it beyond where the cotter pin is functional so wondering if I'm supposed to have more spacer or what

Re: Mustang ii control arm install and torque help
 

Ditto for what mr48chev said, but I have used spacers if the nut tightened too far.

Re: Mustang ii control arm install and torque help
 

spacers = washers.

and if you are nervous about washers dont be. the taper of the balljoint is made to exactly match the taper in the hole of the spindle. this is why you have to use a ballkoint separator or tap the spindle to take the spindle off once its been on there.

its more importat to get the balljoint to seat so what I would do is tighten it like mr48 says, dont worry about going past the cotter pin hole just yet. get it super snug, then back the nut off and give it a bump/shake. if it falls apart you might have the wrong taper on one side or the other. if it doesnt fall apart, put some spacer/washers on and tighten the castle nut again.

and one last thing, castle nuts have been suffering from shrinkflation I have noticed, you might stop at the auto parts store and might find a beefier one that lines up with the cotter pin hole.

Re: Mustang ii control arm install and torque help
 

The Mopar ball joint's stud that is used in most tubular aftermarket MII control arms may be longer than the MII ball joint stud. The actual threaded stud part above the taper that is. The thickness of the washer under the nut doesn't affect anything except getting the slots in the castle nut up where you need them to be.

This being the stud on the ball joint on a Helix A arm I have out back.

The bottom image being a stock MII lower ball joint.

Re: Mustang ii control arm install and torque help
 

Thank you for the replies this is so helpful! I understand what you mean now as I accidentally put the spacer before the rubber once and it had to be tapped off the ball joint. So the spindle needs to be seated the same way. So I'll try the hand tightening and see where it gets me for adding spacers/washers.

And joedoh you say to give it a bump shake ? I have everything installed. I will pull rim to get better access but are you basically meaning to make sure the spindle doesnt seem to "flop" around on the ball joints while put together?

Sorry I'm learning cars not a pro. Dad knows a good chunk but not familiar with this mustang ii stuff haha

Re: Mustang ii control arm install and torque help
 

yep thats exactly what I mean. give it the old "technical tap"

Re: Mustang ii control arm install and torque help
 

Thank you!!

Re: Mustang ii control arm install and torque help
 

I've noticed that "shrinkification of those castle nuts that come with new ball joints and tire rods over the past few years. Simply meaning that they aren't as tall as the ones that came in the kits 40 years ago were. In the 70's some were almost too tall and you had to tighten the nut an extra slot or two to get it down far enough so that you could get the key in the hole and now we are adding washers to take up the space because there is less material in the nut between the bottom of it and the slots. Bean counters telling them that they can save money by using shorter nuts.

Re: Mustang ii control arm install and torque help
 

Yes I defonitly have a large castle nut on the back that shows me what you mean and shrinking haha

And I think we got it thanks to you all....just wrenched it down tight and added the necessary washers and seems seated well..