Headlinder
 

I have a 1970 CST10 that needs the factory headliner reinstalled. I removed it for the restoration, and now ready to reinstall it. I really do not want to use the recommended spray adhesive unless I have too for fear of making a huge mess. Are there any other options out there like using a good quality 3M 2 sided automotive tape? Thank you for your help. Thank you

Re: Headlinder
 

Would industrial velcro work? Not sure if the heat from the sun would make the velcro loosen from the roof?

Re: Headlinder
 

How about buy off of eBay about 100 N52 strength 12mm x 3mm or bigger neodymium magnets. Glue them on the headliner and stick it to the roof.

Re: Headlinder
 

Spray adhesive is not what was originally used. I would never expect that to work well, too thin for a good transfer. I use 3M weatherstrip adhesive which comes in a tube. You lay on a good thick bead which gets flattened and spread giving a much better transfer than a spray. It may not be the exact product the factory used, but it is the same method. The thing with using velcro or magnets is that will space the headliner off the metal, causing a bulge since the trim holds the headliner snug to it. Also, how are you going to fasten the velcro or magnets, adhesive? Use the weatherstrip adhesive liberally as you want, if you are real concerned. The original headliners were a paper surfaced board. If one failed, it was the paper separating off the hardboard

Re: Headlinder
 

special-K, I like your suggestion. I assume you applied 3M weatherstrip adhesive on the headliner, and roof, then put them together. Did you have to prop up the headliner for a few days to allow the adhesive to dry?

Re: Headlinder
 

I would think maby windshield urethane would work as well if it holds a structure piece of a vehicle in place in the sun and extreme cold.

Re: Headlinder
 

I don't remember using anything but the chrome molding and very very short screws. Yes I drilled holes for the srew so if you go this route don' get in an a hurry. The only pic I could find of it.

Re: Headlinder
 

I posted the same question a couple months ago 'cuz I was having the same issue with the trim not holding it up and falling through the trim itself. What was recommended to me was using a silicone adhesive. Haven't done it yet due to the 40 degree weather, but it sounded like a really good solution

Re: Headlinder
 

I would think the 3m trim adhesive would hold up well if you use enough. You could also check your local auto body store and ask them for some idea as well.

Re: Headlinder
 

Yes. I suggest cutting plywood about the same fit and use props. You could also use 1x lumber or whatever you might have around. A nice thick bead is what you want, so any other good adhesive that comes in a caulk gun tube should work well. The weatherstrip adhesive is in a squeeze tube, so if you use that, get a couple to have plenty. I'm not a big fan of silicone ever since urethane caulks and adhesives have come along. I use the caulks in my work on homes, but don't have experience with any in this application. Urethane/tri-polymers stay pliant like silicone, don't dry out and get brittle.

Checking with body shop supplier/paint shop is a good idea. But I had good success with the weatherstrip adhesive. One truck I used it on that did have a headliner originally, so no trim at all.

Re: Headlinder
 

My inside ceiling isn't drilled for a head liner. And I'm not drilling any hole. I bought the industrial strength Velcro from Lowes. It comes in 2 inch wide rolls. I put it on about 4 inch's in from the outer edge of the headliner the whole way around. I also attached a 1 foot strip to the center. I didn't peel it away and put any on the ceiling. Both sides of the Velcro was attached to the head liner only. I peeled the backing off the Velcro. I sat in the center of the seat and very carefully centered the head liner and pressed it to the ceiling. It's been up now 3 years with NO sagging or warping or edge curling. I don't have any chrome holding it up. I think it looks great and I get lots of compliments at the car shows. It really helps with the acoustics.

Re: Headlinder
 

Has anyone out there tried using a good quality 3M double sided tape (same type used to attach trim/molding to exterior of car/truck)? I am curious if anyone has, and how has it held up overtime.

Re: Headlinder
 

my friend and next door neighbor has an upholstery shop and does interiors for higher end restoration vehicles...
For a lot of panels, he uses a PVC sheet that is used in boat interiors. It can be heated and molded, glues strong like PVC pipe and is impervious to moisture.
For some panels he uses a tool I made him to recess small magnets (1/2" round x 1/8" thick) flush into the sheet then glues them in place. As far as I know, he's never had an issue with them coming loose.

He will be doing my '67 interior when the time comes. I plan to make my own trim that will attach to the headliner and the entire assembly will be held in place with the magnets...

Re: Headlinder
 

My upholstery guy uses industrial Velcro along with the "chrome" perimeter strips. The velcro is a 2in. strip to keep center from sagging. No pics of interior yet.

Re: Headlinder
 

I bought the "chrome" trim....what I got was plastic...:(

Re: Headlinder
 

Yeah, the 88-98 headliners all end up failing. That fabric comes loose from the backing board material. The fabric is spray glued on. I saw that replacements were made using a poly-type molded backer and that is certainly what I would use. I wondered if the repro headliners were upgraded with a similar material. That's what fails on the original headliners, they warp and pull loose, or the paper skin separates and left behind still stuck to the adhesive. It's not the adhesive that fails, it's the hardboard. There is no reason to go to any other way of fastening than what the factory did.

Re: Headlinder
 

yep... 50 year old technology...like a broke drum....can't beat it...:lol::lol::lol:

Re: Headlinder
 

:lol: There might be a better broken drum made since back then, but a good adhesive can't be beat :lol:

Heck, I don't know what adhesive the factory used anyway. But it's the hardboard that gives out. With most restored trucks living a more comfortable life, likely garage kept, this shouldn't be such an issue

Re: Headlinder
 

I installed mine this weekend with the 3M weatherstrip adhesive, I put it on the headliner only, use alot and cover as much of the headliner as possible.
I put it up on the ceiling and was able to move it around to line it up, it did not want to stick, I pulled it down and it off gassed and was very stringy so do not pull it down to far, then I stuck it back up and it stuck like it should, I proped it for 24hrs and all seems great.
So I think the biggest trick with it is to put it up and smear it in and then pull it down and restick it back up.

Re: Headlinder
 

The instructions on the tube say to coat both sides and let it tack up.

Re: Headlinder
 

So what exactly did the factory use. My headliner I belllieve is made like the factory ones were. Just a flimsy fiberboard type material. If it's not attached in the middle it will flop down. I have a headliner roof panel here as well and it doesn't look like they used very much adhesive if that's what was used from the factory. The black spots are what look like glue spots. Also I've never owned trucks that had factory headliners so did the factory adhesive work or I it get loose after 10 years?

Re: Headlinder
 

I used VELCRO® Brand 15' x 2" Black Industrial Strength Fastener. It seemed to work well. I did replace some body molding and thought the 3M body molding tape would have worked well too (3M™ Super Strength Molding Tape, 03616, 7/8 in x 15 ft).
The advantage of the velcro is that if you ever need to remove the headline it will be a lot easier.