Pinion seal, front-rear & stabilizer shocks & tie rod end replacement journey
 

Started this journey at the rear & ran into something I was not prepared for – even after watching hot to YouTube videos and/or reading threads on this forum.

When I started to loosen the bolts in order to pull the propeller shaft out of the way, I found that as I unscrewed one bolt there was simply no more room left to unscrew and I could not remove – runs into the propeller shaft (see pic). The bolt was no longer threaded so I believe that I will just have to loosen them all and then push/pull the propeller shaft towards the front of the truck and it will be out. I stopped because I wasn’t expecting this and wanted to investigate first. According to a parts catalog and service manual there are two types: U-bolt or Strap (see pic). Ok, that’s explained but it seems odd the bolts would be too long to remove because it runs into the propeller shaft. Has anyone else experienced this?

Re: Pinion seal, front-rear & stabilizer shocks & tie rod end replacement journey
 

I would think this is not uncommon. Just loosen all the bolts pull shaft out of yoke then finish removing bolts. Another scenario I have ran into more often than not, if yoke is straight up/down. Bolts on top side will not thread completely out because of shaft angle. Easy problem to overcome as well. Would guess it is stronger to have bolts go into the more solid section of yoke as opposed to just the thinner part around u-joint. On u-bolt style yokes I would say u-bolts will mostly not come out until yanking assembly out of yoke

Re: Pinion seal, front-rear & stabilizer shocks & tie rod end replacement journey
 

Like Richard noted this is a common issue. I just stick a screwdriver in behind the yolk and pry against the pinion nut. Typically only one side comes loose. If the bolts are loosened on both straps you can slide the drive line to the side and remove it. Gives you easy access to the other two bolts. The drive line you have is a typical GM design.

Re: Pinion seal, front-rear & stabilizer shocks & tie rod end replacement journey
 

I had soaked the area with WD40, after un-threading all the bolts the driveshaft lifted right out.

Thought I'd take a moment to list all the parts I bought for this adventure.

1972 4X4 Longbox

MOOG:
Drag link rear - ES2026R
Drag link to Pitman arm - ES2027L
Drag link sleeve - ES362S
Tie rods - ES375R & ES375L

MONROE:
Steering stabilizer shock - SC2916
Front shocks - 37040 (black)
Rear shocks - 34822 (yellow, but painted black to match)

National oil seal, rear pinion: 8460N

Nuts & Bolts (grade 8):
(2) 3 1/2" bolts - (top front shock)
(4) 2 1/2" bolts (bottom front shock & bottom rear shock)
FYI: rear top bolts cannot be removed without replacing shock tower
8 1/2" nuts and split washers

Misc hardware from McMasters-Carr to construct the front stabilizer shock bracket mount:
304 Stainless Steel Sheet, 3" x 4", 1/4" Thick - PN:6620K177
304 Stainless Steel U-Bolt, 3/8"-16 Thread Size, 1-1/4" ID - PN:8896T55 (comes with SS nuts)
I bought the split washers from Lowes as I did not want to buy a packet of 50.

I clean / paint everything I handle or in sight as I go, so it's a slow process for me, I'll post pics as I complete something. I scanned the bracket I made so if anyone wants a template I can send it to you as the pic attached in the forum had to be sized to post.