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New cab mounts and the box still sites way higher
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Thought it would fix it but nope. I don't know why it's the way it is only thing I can think of is the box is off a 3/4 ton.are 3)4 ton boxes different? Do I need 3/4 ton cab mounts? Haven't bean able to find any difference for 81 ups.
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Re: New cab mounts and the box still sites way higher
beds are the same. is something rusting out and letting the cab sag?
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Re: New cab mounts and the box still sites way higher
I've swapped beds between years plenty, and never had it sit like that. might have to shim the rear cab mount. they came with big square shims on the top of them.
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Re: New cab mounts and the box still sites way higher
I had to shim my 73, figured from the bondo in the gate it's been hit in a past life
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Probably just the pic but sure looks like the cab is sagging down in back
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Re: New cab mounts and the box still sites way higher
I have used an 86 bed on a 77 2wd 3/4 ton with no issues.
Then put a 4wd frame under that same cab and bed with no issues. I'm thinking that the body bushings that are under your truck are for a 1/2-ton cab. 3/4-ton mounts :https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/3.4103 1/2-ton mounts :https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/3.4109 |
Re: New cab mounts and the box still sites way higher
Shim the cab. Ok what should I use. Just get a Stack of washers? Cab had no shim before.
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Is the cab an 81? |
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Everything with that combo should be the same.
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Is the body line up by the door handle off too? Hey, no pic so I had to as.
Do the cross sills on the bed look original? Something weird going on. |
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Re: New cab mounts and the box still sites way higher
Its probably a combination of things. It looks like the rocker/cab corner may have been replaced and maybe were not lined up properly or were maybe lined up with the old bed which may have been rusted and sagging? Maybe the pickup box side is bent in? My truck was picked up with a forklift that bent the one side in a little.
Be aware that adding a shim in just one corner is going to throw off door/front fender alignment. I spent hours trying to get things to line up properly after a frame swap only to find a shim lying on the body mounts on the old frame, popped it in and everything magically fit again. It looked like a square piece of steel with a hole in it. Good luck! |
Re: New cab mounts and the box still sites way higher
How well does the upper body line align with the bed?
Your cab corner doesn't have a consistent gap with the door. When I weld up corners and rockers I don't remove the door if it's not deformed and I don't have to. It gives me a decent reference for aligning the floor, rocker panel, and the cab corner patches not to mention the fender when I get there. You can open and close the door a bunch of times to verify your progress. I've had to slice and dice cab corner and rocker patches because one or more dimension wasn't quite right. It's more common than you might think. For instance: I've had corner patches that weren't wide enough to make a nice straight cab back line and nice straight striker & door gap line without splitting the patch and welding in a section of metal. Rockers that aren't wide enough from the gasket flange to where it lines up with the door are common too. Split it and weld in some metal so things line up properly. Lots more work but it has to be done to make it right. Something else to keep in mind. GM wasn't the best at making nice body panel gaps. If you aren't working on both sides take a look at the opposite side and make sure your work matches the un-molested factory work. If you're doing both sides you can make the workmanship top notch and most folks will assume it's original. LOL Modern SUV chassis like the Chevy Traverse and Tahoe/Suburban door gaps to the rocker, dogleg, and striker panels on the rear doors are barely passable from the factory. If your repair is done well and not like the barely passable factory work on the opposite side some people will notice and figure the factory work is your repair. |
Re: New cab mounts and the box still sites way higher
[QUOTE=Honest Bob;9070284]Its probably a combination of things. It looks like the rocker/cab corner may have been replaced and maybe were not lined up properly or were maybe lined up with the old bed which may have been rusted and sagging? Maybe the pickup box side is bent in? My truck was picked up with a forklift that bent the one side in a little.
Be aware that adding a shim in just one corner is going to throw off door/front fender alignment. I spent hours trying to get things to line up properly after a frame swap only to find a shim lying on the body mounts on the old frame, popped it in and everything magically fit again. It looked like a square piece of steel with a hole in it. Good luck![/QUOTE the corner has bean replaced. It's going to get rereplaced when the box and doors get done. I shimmed up the cab and got the body lines dam near perfect. Didn't help the cab coner out much. I think box may be bent in some. It definitely is on the passenger side the passenger side will line up decent whent that gets pulled out. |
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If the upper body line matches straight along from the cab to the bed then you have a problem with the bedside.
If the cab is lower on that line then you need to replace the cab mounts with the correct height pieces and possibly shim it to match. It's all kinds of fun because the radiator support bushings under the nose are part of the mix. Don't loosen the door hinges. Play with the body bushings til the doors line up the way they do right now then re-align the nose to door body gap. If your bed has anything of consequence between the frame and bed someone probably did a body lift. Worth looking at. 1/4" chunks of rubber don't count. :-) Lots easier to pull the lift blocks out from under the bed than replace the cab mounts. I was commenting about how I deal with the door gaps when patching cab corners and rockers in the hopes it would be useful. I wasn't trying to be obnoxious about that door gap. |
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