High build body work question
 

As I type this, I realize this might belong in the paint section, but I think this area gets more traffic. ;)

Anyway, my question is about maintaining the details (lines, features, letters, etc) when using high-build. As an example, my tailgate is new from Mar-K and I'm thinking about taping off the letters and feather the edges so there isn't a line. Would this be poor technique to (try to) ensure I keep crisp lines?

Is it customary to use it on all sides of the door? I'm tempted to spray everything and take the time to sand it all down.

I'm using Evercoat super build if that matters. I hear it's a little harder to sand.

Thanks

Re: High build body work question
 

rnrdthefox i would not tape the letters you run a risk of it showing in the paint. It also depends on what kind of paint you will be using. Single stage is more forgiving than a base coat clear coat. always remember that paint will magnifies the imperfections , small scratches, etc. It will not take the crispness of the letters buy painting over every thing. just my two cents Denis

Re: High build body work question
 

my 2 cents. i also used a mar-k tail gate, mine was in very good condition, only needing priming,sealing to paint. i would not use filling primer on a panel that does not need it.

Re: High build body work question
 

Thanks to both of you for your responses. I've already addressed the spot welds before I put epoxy on it. I'm leaning to not spraying the panel if it's not needed.

Re: High build body work question
 

I wouldn't bother taping off the tailgate letters - it'd be a lot more trouble than it is worth. If you want to add definition to the letters, they sell vinyl letter kit that you can use as-is or for a back-mask for paint.

If you've already gone so far as to fill in all the spot weld craters on the rest of the truck, you might as well do it on the jambs and inside door panels as well with spray polyester(you might want to think about what you're going to do for door cards - I wouldn't bother if the door card covered the entire door, but with a factory door card it'd be OK)

The inside door panels and jambs have a lot of spot welds that'll be visible with new shiny paint

Re: High build body work question
 

I've decided to shoot all the parts with the polyester to clean and straighten things up. I sprayed several pieces this weekend and didn't find it difficult to sand. The sanding in general is just tedious, especially with the doors. I shot the whole door so I would have a clean inside if I decided to go with a factory size cover. But, right now I'm thinking of having them fully covered to the cab seal. Thx

Re: High build body work question
 

If the metal around the letters is straight and not distorted then shooting high build over them isn't needed and will soften any details. The heavy texture/orange peel of the primer will build up and need to be sanded out. Unless you're very careful and methodical it will be really hard to not lose detail when sanding the letters. The best option is only using 2-3 coats of epoxy since it's thinner and won't have as much texture.

Re: High build body work question
 

Thanks. This is what my gut told me, but my lack of experience in this phase of the project makes me jump back and forth with my thinking.

Re: High build body work question
 

Personally, Polyester primer is basically spraying Bondo. On a new Mar-K bed NO WAY would I use it. I have one of those beds on mine that I sprayed in regular Urethane primer and that is it, I will sand it and paint it.

Polyester primer is for serious detail work on something like a firewall that you have filled holes or something like that. Basically where you may need to spread bondo but it would be to difficult with a bunch of body lines and stuff, other than that there is no need for polyester primer.

It is WAY too much work to sand for paint on something so nice as that new bed.

Brian