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Another question.
Foam and Foil Duct Insulation peel and stick
On Garage Squad they say to use this inside Vehicles verses Dynamat.
this is 1/8" thick.
Do you know if this come in a thicker mat 1/4" maybe?
What are you guy's using?

The real answer to the question. Everything.
You can look at the past post. everything from fancy to old school stuff. Thick / thin, none all of it.
Want your answer "what you feel comfortable with and how much you want to spend"

I used some old school foil sided jutte with nice carpet with liner.

Please don't put that in your vehicle. You can get it up to 2" thick. I'm a commercial general contractor. This is a fiberglass product that is designed to be installed and not impacted by anything. It will degrade. The little glass strands will break up and end up in your lungs. As we say in the business "there's a lot of ways to build a wall but that's not one of them". JMHO. Thank you for your time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mick53 (Post 9139968)

Really good catch. I didn't look at the product that close. Don't want to use fiberglass.

That's actually the FV516 Foam and foil
Foam and Foil Duct Insulation
Foam and Foil Duct Insulation Duct insulation is for both heating and air conditioner ducts and is self adhesive foil and foam. For heating and air conditioning ducts Cushions and reduces vibrations Can be tape securely in place Stops vibration Combines the properties of two popular insulating materials in one handy roll. It can be used on both heating and air-conditioning ducts, as well as on car and truck hoods and trunks. Where to buy PRODUCT SKU UPC SPECS COLOR FV516 077578023335 1 ft x 1/8" x 15 ft N/A\

As apposed to the sp55/6 fiberglass insulation with foil back. https://www.grainger.com/product/48H...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

It's a step up from the foil backed bubble wrap insulation we used in the 80's but It can be used on cars/trucks. R value of 30.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mick53 (Post 9139968)

I saw the fiberglass stuff next to this what mr48chev said.
Thanks for looking out for me :metal:

i wrote a post about sound deadening in these old trucks, I will try to find it.

my experience is that a thick jute underlayment and taking care of wind noise with door seals and window seals does more for road noise than any layer of material on the steel. I use patches of the "peel n seal" from lowes on big flat panels but not a continuous layer. I remember when dynamat was introduced and the counter dispaly was two metal discs, one had a dime size piece of dynamat on it and that was all that was needed, adding more didnot reduce the resonance appreciably.

found it

Quote:

Originally Posted by joedoh (Post 8190046)

there are two types of sound deadening, mass adders and absorptive. most likely you are using a mass adder like dynomat or fatmat or any kind of asphalt based sound deadener. I use peel and seal from home depot, its about 16 bucks a roll.

asphalt based sound deadener adds mass and lowers the resonant frequency of the panel. thats fancy talk, so how about we talk in laymans terms?

when you hear road noise in your cabin, even when you have sealed the air leaks and rolled up the windows, you are hearing all the panels vibrating. sound doesnt travel through the panel, the sound vibrates the panel from the outside and the panel sympathetically vibrates on the inside. there is a point where the vibrations are strongest, stronger than any other point. this is called the resonant frequency, where the panel naturally wants to vibrate.

reproducing frequencies is easier the higher they are, reproducing lower frequencies takes a lot of energy. if you have ever looked at a sound system, the tweeters are very small (high frequencies) and the bass speakers are very large (low frequencies). the same is true for the amplifiers, the high frequency amplifier (mid/high) can be smaller and will run cooler, the low frequency amplifier (woofer/subwoofer) is very large and works very hard.

with no sound deadening, the resonant frequency of a panel is also comparatively very high. when you add mass, you lower that sympathetic vibration frequency. now it takes more energy to vibrate the panel (you have lowered the resonant frequency and its now acting like a woofer/subwoofer). since you havent increased the size of the panel it is also less efficient at the lower frequency.

there is a point of diminishing returns when adding mass. you get to a point where the resonant frequency is so low that adding more mass doesnt lower it any further. therefore, any application of mass to a panel is effective, and you dont need to cover the whole panel to see the best result. put it in the middle of large panels, and it will be fine.

absorptive sound deadening works by absorbing reflected sound. cloth, any soft surface, and products like lizard skin are absorptive. these coatings work best in complete, gapless, covering because any bare steel will reflect sound.

sorry for the book. now you know though!

Thanks for the Info
It will help smooth out the floor

I used foil backed jute under a reproduction rubber mat in my truck. I opt away from bubble wrap in cars. I have used high density foam with success.