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Best Engine Oil for 307?
Morning guys!
I recently bought a '69 C20 with a 307. I'd like to change the oil in the engine, transmission (3 on the tree) and rear end so that I know exactly what's in it and when it was changed. I use mostly Mobil products in my new stuff, but understand that these old engines like zinc, etc. What oil do you use and recommend for each of those components? Thanks! Wes |
Re: Best Engine Oil for 307?
I use Shell Rotella in all my old trucks, they still have the highest amount of zinc, 1200 ppm, 90wt for gears, sta-lube brand, right from Texas :metal:
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Re: Best Engine Oil for 307?
Mobil is a good brand.
This topic opens up a Big can of worms. Especially when you're talking to old guys (Like most of us on the Forum):haha::rolleyes: Do you use Conventional or Synthetic in older vehicles? Then the fight begins:hc::mmmk::box::chop::josh: Here is a forum in the link below, That my brother reads that has lots of advice and Opinions about oil. Link: https://bobistheoilguy.com/ |
Re: Best Engine Oil for 307?
I use Castrol GTX Classic 20W-50 Conventional Motor Oil in my 67's small block and my 95 k2500 engines , Driven brand gear oil in the Muncie 4 speed and posi rear differential The posi requires additive . . Use the type oil whatever engine you have that it was designed to use when new , Never use synthetics in a classic car/truck . :chevy:
https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-Class...09QXWLY2Y?th=1 https://drivenracingoil.com/i-304977...SABEgKgq_D_BwE |
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The rest of the oils and brand is prefference.. |
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how do you get in touch with George Zapora? I need to find out what mine came with.
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Park on level ground, chock the front tires, put trans in neutral, and release the parking brake. Jack up the rear until both rear tires are off the ground. Manually rotate either rear tire. If the opposite side tire rotates in the same direction, you have a posi. If it rotates in the opposite direction, you have an open diff. |
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=George+Zapora |
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Watch this video it may help . :chevy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atjO_2DH3GQ |
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I just get the Napa oils and use some Lucas as an additive. Been no complaints from any of my engines. Even do the same in my wifes KIA. Service manager approved at the KIA dealer for warranty purposes since the engine has the VVT system
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Re: Best Engine Oil for 307?
Obviously you need to run Pennzoil.......that way it blows up quicker and you can promptly yank that gutless wonder and replace it with a real man's truck engine, LOL!
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He probably likes it just the way it is.:chevy::chevy: |
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I rebuilt my 1956 Ford 223 inline 6 in 2010 and was originally going to switch over to synthetic after 5-10k miles, but I never did. In 2019 the engine was on it's last leg for several reasons not relevant to this thread, but what is relevant is that it was burning no oil, and it was leaking like a seive at the rear main seal, and had been suffering from low oil pressure. I remember being taught in school that synthetic oil is more resistant to breakdown by overheating, and can often maintain more consistent pressure characteristics, so with a dying engine with low oil pressure, leaking RMS, and 50k miles, I switched from 20W-50 conventional to 20W-50 Mobil 1 full synthetic. RMS leak was noticeably less right off the bat, no oil burning, NOT A SINGLE DROP of oil from any other previously-not-leaking-seal, and my pressure went up 5-10 lbs across the board. And all these improvements remained for about 5k miles until I put the engine out of its misery. In 2010 I also switched my 185k mile Honda Prelude from conventional to synth with zero oil leaks. all oil seals were original. All this myth about it being detrimental to switch old/high mileage engines to synthetic is hooplah. Everybody has their stories, these are mine. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/i...nfused0082.gif |
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As for Pennz, I remember a friend of my dad's had a '56 Chevy wagon that he only used non-detergent oil in, and replaced it as needed. In retrospect, I was pretty young, so I didn't notice if it had the optional oil filter. Anyway, he was working on it, and had the intake manifold and valve covers off. I distinctly remember that the oil had congealed like jello around the rocker arms, and there was a whole lot of it in the lifter galley. He was scooping it out with his hands. :lol: My dad used Havoline, and there was never anything but an oily surface when an engine was opened up around our place. |
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Keep in mind most any of todays oils are likely better than any of the older oils. It is getting difficult to even find conventional oils, but I have been buying the Traveller oils from Tractor supply (good oil). I have a vehicle with over 400,000 miles running the conventional Warren oil (TSC, WalMart), and no issues. I used to only run name brand oils. I do shy away from Fram filters (never had any issue, but bad reviews scared me away). |
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Mel, if you are asking what brand or type of oil, any quality brand you like is good. Pretty much the same with type since it's nit a high rpm screamer. As far as weight, I also use 20w50 because it stays in an older motor best, leaks or burning. Pour weight of 20w sounds heavy by new and modern car standards, but back when these trucks were built most people ran 20w straight in winter and 30w straight in summer. You can run in the 307 whatever is good for any small block. For economy I run Walmart 20w50 in my daily driver with 350 because it used to have an oil consumption issue. In a truck with a healthy small block I want to treat special I run Castrol GTX. It will keep rings nice and freed up with the castor oil it has in it
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Oil is oil, up to some kind of weird point. I used to flip Chevy Vegas, and was a real fan of Castrol in those days. I sold one to my FiL, but it used oil like a big dog, like a quart every 500 miles, even though it was rebuilt. He sold it to one of my wife's friends when he got a screaming deal on an AMC Gremlin. My wife's friend had Pennz put in it at her first oil change and it never used a drop after that. I have no answer for that.
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