C notch or not
 

Morning all

got a 1966 c10 short stepside, original frame was tweaked too bad,
found another frame
wirebrushing frame then using Chassis Saver, them topcoat with a dark granite color
definately going air bag but question in how low can i get without doing anything to the frame

pictures would be great as well as rim and tire size

Thanks for any Response

Re: C notch or not
 

This is static dropped. I didn't measure the before but I'll show you both. They are 15x7 stock wheels with 255-60R15


https://i.ibb.co/4mZdXQL/Smart-Selec...08-Dropbox.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/fqJnzHd/20230329-130220.jpg

Re: C notch or not
 

I think they recommend the small c notch for a 4" drop. If you've got a bare frame now would be the time to do it.

Re: C notch or not
 

Air bags almost always require a C Notch.

As mentioned above when the frame is bare is the time to do it. I'm going coilovers and not air but still installed a C Notch a couple of months back as I continue work on my bare frame.

Re: C notch or not
 

I didn't notch the rear of my most recent '66, just trimmed the bump stops to keep the axle off the frame at full compression. At this height it has about 1.5" of travel before it hits the bump stops. Currently it has relocated shocks so they're more effective, and the shocks are valved a bit too stiff which usually keeps it from bottoming out on the bump stops. It has 1.5" drop blocks and D2600 air bags on schrader valves so I can adjust the height and lift it back up when hauling a lot of weight. With softer shocks or lower height you'd need a notch.

https://i.imgur.com/9LvkCr8h.jpg


My old '66 had the same rear shock relocation but with softer valved shocks, a 2.5" pipe notch, 2" drop blocks, and unknown drop springs. It sat roughly 1" lower all around than the current truck. It rode great with the softer shocks and extra travel from the notch.


I would do a small weld in pipe notch over the usual bolt in c-notch kits, the c-notch kits cut away an unnecessary amount of frame for the amount of travel gained- the diff housing will hit the bed before you use up all the travel that a bolt in notch has. If you plan on towing or hauling weight behind the axle a weld in pipe notch with the frame boxed will be much stronger than a bolt in style notch.


Both trucks have 215/75 front tires on stock wheels with 1.5" bolt on spacers to clear the calipers and push the wheels out closer to the fender lip to fill up the fenderwell better, and 235/75 rear tires on old 8" chrome reverse aftermarket wheels that have 3.25" backspacing.

https://i.imgur.com/GoR80p3h.jpg

Re: C notch or not
 

This is why I went with No Limit's C notch which they state is actually stronger than stock due to its design. The difference is obvious.

https://nolimit.net/store/C-10-C-Not...tops-p71742366

Re: C notch or not
 

I was heavily inspired by this article right here on 67-72, and built my notch accordingly, but I raised the bed floor too.

If you're not really going to carry anything, you probably don't need a notch. I would like to see at least 3" of bump travel in the rear suspension; if that requires a notch, I put one in.

Re: C notch or not
 

That's an interesting read. I'm not any sort of fabricator so they are beyond my skills. I had a good friend who is a great fabricator install my c-notch and perform the work on my frame for me. At least I get to pay him in beer.

I like to think that No Limit wouldn't steer me wrong which is why I went with their C notch kit and plan to use their wide ride IFS/trailing arm set up on my truck as well.

On a side note, I just discovered your blog since I wanted to read more about your 1961 and it looks like I have found an enjoyable read and a lot of information. Looking forward to checking out the YT stuff as well.

Re: C notch or not
 

I would say add the c notch while everything is apart. In my experience I always want it lower than what I have. When I had everything off the frame I asked the guy that was working on the sheet metal to add c notches to the frame but he pretended to forget. I still regret not pushing him to do it.

Re: C notch or not
 

Excellent reference + info then & it is still accurate/effective to date.

The 'No Limit' version on the 63-72 C-10 notch looks promising. The info listed in the product description defining limitations is on point. That being said, I do question the comment regarding the addition of it making the modded area stronger though (and I like Rob/No Limit). I could see it doesn't compromise strength like other available c-notches (CPP/POL) but it still has vertical height reduced which is where the strength comes. It definitely is better for the axle tube to make contact w/a bump-stop vs pounding the bottom side of the rail.

I'd like to see more data on the numbers proving (educating us) how it's stronger than a stock rail.

Re: C notch or not
 

I did a notch kit, one that you can bolt in, BUT I also welded it just for my own mind. I will say this, with the notch as others with way more knowledge than me, the notch will allow for a better ride and as you always hear with a shop, go big, always go bigger than you think, you can always not use the extra room if you want. So go with the notch, that way if you want a bit lower you can go lower. Just a thought, and you got some outstanding builders replies on here!