Floor replacement tips/tricks for a factory install
 

I've decided to go the complete floor/bracket/mounts installed route.
I was thinking of drilling all the r cab spot welds after I welded in interior cross bracing for the alignment
Pull the cab and roll it on its back(r window) and proceed to remove the floor that way. Thoughts, good and bad welcome and or other methods. I want to stay away from patches over here then over there etc, etc
You guys get it. Problem areas to address with additional drain holes and the preferred coating underneath. Paint or Rust Encapsulator ? Intended for as close to a stocker is the goal. No mudding. Nice driving head turner

Re: Floor replacement tips/tricks for a factory install
 

I am (finally) about to do a complete floor on my cab. I have bracing welded into my cab already, a couple of pieces of wood screwed to the front brace to set the front level of the new floor, and my rocker panels removed. My plan is to cut the old floor out this weekend. I am very fortunate in that I have an overhead chain hoist in my shop. I run a strap through my door openings and am able to lift it straight up. My intention is to use my plasma cutter to cut about a half inch away from the spot weld seams on the front and back. I will then lift the cab off and have plenty of room to cut the spot welds and remove the rest of the floor. I hope my aftermarket floor will be straight enough that I can then set the cab right back down on it. I will then replace the bottoms of my A and B pillars before I re-install the cab floor. I'm toying with the idea of bonding the front and rear seams with a 3M structural adhesive rather than trying to spot weld. That decision will likely come down to how well the floor fits to the cab in those seams.

I've put a lot of thought into this and I think that, while it seems like an intimidating task, I don't think it will end up being too bad. I've actually been putting this off for a few years to decide the best way to do it and to patch the firewall, kick panels, and pillars to try to get the best chance of getting the floor in correctly.

The replacement floor I have has an e-coat primer on it. I will likely just scuff it and spray some Rustoleum tractor paint on it to give it some protection from the elements. That e-coat isn't really meant to stand up to sunshine. I'm going for a driver to have fun with, not a brand new restoration. Knowing me, I would be too worried about a chip or scratch to enjoy something like that.

Re: Floor replacement tips/tricks for a factory install
 

I have left over rust encapsulator from spraying the bed bottom so I will run with that after I get it in.. A minor quick scuff with 220 and then spray with orginal base coat of the GM514 paint. Not going to worry about clear under the cab and will make transition to the firewall.look seamless.
I will end up notching A B and rockers for drainage all after I get encapsulator on the inside.
Love to see pics as you go. Like your bracing locations and after you get the plasma cutting done.
Good luck and can't wait to see your progress as I'm sure other members would be curious too.
Hopefully you get a chance to update and attach pics

Re: Floor replacement tips/tricks for a factory install
 

This guy is on the message board here. I forget his username... something May.... he has videos on youtube of replacing the floorpan

https://www.youtube.com/@MAYCOCustomRestorations/videos

Re: Floor replacement tips/tricks for a factory install
 

When I did my floor two years ago I braced cab up cut floor out from inside ground off spot welds. Slid in under cab and used 3m structural adhesive to put back together added a few spot welds. Sandblasted and painted bottom with por15 topcoated with rust oleum before installing.

Re: Floor replacement tips/tricks for a factory install
 

WOW that's quite a SANO job doing it on the frame. The guy mentioned is MAYCO and he has a 3 part series of his r & r floor off the frame and on his homemade cab dolly
My other issue is the interior roof and I will have to leave the doors on to pick it up and off the frame.
Being you did it on the frame, what areas did you weld to tie it together and did you use the lower window channels as your level reference points ?