L6 with headers heat to carb
 

Looking for some information on installing heat to the carb on my truck using an Offenhauser intake and cast iron headers. I have purchased a plate from Offenhauser to bolt to the bottom of intake below the carb, it came with brass fittings to a water hose on. I'm sure a few of you folks have used this method, was looking for pro's and con's of doing this, also hopefully pictures of how you routed the hoses and how you tapped into the heater hoses. Has anyone had a problem with leakage, I was planning on making a gasket, I doubt if you can buy one. Appreciate any help you can offer.

Re: L6 with headers heat to carb
 

My brother's 56 with a 235 isn't plumbed and hasn't has any issues.
However in central ca weather probably 40° as cold as it gets driven in.

Re: L6 with headers heat to carb
 

What type of header do you have?

Here is a setup on a Fenton header for heat from the exhaust.

Attachment 2362389

Re: L6 with headers heat to carb
 

I just installed vintage air and heat in this truck. These are the same headers that I have on my 235 in my 51 sedan and I have the same installation on it. It works great on my car. These headers on my truck were not drilled and tapped like the Fenton ones, I've been thinking of drilling a hole in each exhaust pipe right below the headers and welding a nut over it such as they do with an oxygen sensor to run the tubing too. Seems logical to me, how does that sound to you folks?

Re: L6 with headers heat to carb
 

IMHO, unless you drive the truck in freezing, or colder, climate....the last thing you want is heat to carb

Re: L6 with headers heat to carb
 

Not all of us live in Southern California where the temps don't get that low as far as driving an old car go or you just don't drive the old car when it is cold.

It's about the same as driving a V8 with an air gap manifold or the heat cross over passages blocked off and headers rather than manifolds with a heat riser. It is going to be a bit cranky driving until you get it warmed up to operating temp most of the time and more so when it gets colder. In some cases in some conditions the carb can ice up. For most it is a case of "well, I have to let it warm up a bit before I drive off down the street so it will run right".

Re: L6 with headers heat to carb
 

I think that will Work.

Re: L6 with headers heat to carb
 

Thanks guys, I have the carb off right now so that that would be a good time to install the heat plate, my big hands don't want to fit in those small tight places. I thinking this should have been done before the intake was installed. Not wanting to tear it all apart I believe I'm going to put the hole thing on hold for the time being and drive it a while and then go from there. Appreciate all the input.

Re: L6 with headers heat to carb
 

You should be fine all summer in Michigan with no Carb Heat. I hardly ever need it in Tucson. I do without all year. Possibly the 292 runs better in the high mid summer heat here. The '68 C/10 Stepside has no A/C either, and I need to work on the Vent Windows. Currently I have to rig a bunji cord on the wind wing to get full System 2-40 action.
Once, 30 or 40 years ago, when I ran the Holley 390 CFM with a sort-of Rube Goldberg bellcrank linkage -- I experienced real carb icing. It was Winter, and I was coming down from a ski trip in the White Mountains. I ran into a sleet storm before hitting Globe and my linkage froze up. I was stuck in high RPMs.
I managed to make it to my halfway hamburger stop by feathering the clutch. I stalled the clutch to stop the engine. After coffee and a couple of cheeseburgers, the higher temps at the lower altitude let the linkage thaw out, and the second half of the trip was nominal. I realized why Cessna 150s had a Carb Heat knob.
One reason why I converted to a cable/throttle linkage on the next rebuild.
:mm: