Fix the '66: Build Thread
 

Hey all,

I acquired my dream truck and am kicking off the build! It is a mostly stock, mostly rust free 1966 K10 with amazing patina! I bought the truck along with a set of axles form a 1979 K30 (Dana 60 and 14FF).

The plan is 5.3L, SM465, and NP205. I have the engine, transmission, and transfer case ready to go, I just need to decide on an induction system. I am leaning towards a Holley Truck Avenger just to scratch the itch. I have a CJ7 with an LS that I run the stock EFI on, so I dont want to do the same thing over again with the '66.

I started an instagram to document the build as well. The handle is @fixthe66

As soon as I figure out how to add photos, I will post them!

Re: Fix the '66: Build Thread
 

Awesome, subscribed!

Re: Fix the '66: Build Thread
 

:chevy:

Re: Fix the '66: Build Thread
 

:wop:

Re: Fix the '66: Build Thread
 

I get an error when I try to upload them :(

Re: Fix the '66: Build Thread
 

I get this error when I try to upload

“Your submission could not be processed because a security token was missing.”

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I think I figured out pictures, the files were too large. I am going to try to post a bunch to catch up!

Re: Fix the '66: Build Thread
 

Here is the 305A. I got it running and listed for sale. Since it is not original to the truck, I am going to swap in a better engine for my application.

Re: Fix the '66: Build Thread
 

Both studs as well as the spring pin were broken off in the Dana 60. Using various methods, I got them all out!

Re: Fix the '66: Build Thread
 

Cool, can't wait to see another 4x4 build on here. Give me some extra motivation for mine.

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Thanks! I’ll try to keep the content coming as time allows!

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I pulled off the old steering box and installed the Captain Fab steering box bracket. I tried to copy the geometry from aotte1 but the brackets on my frame made me mount about 1" further back. Hopefully I can deal with that using the drag link adjustment.

Re: Fix the '66: Build Thread
 

I bolted in the tons this weekend.

Front Axle (Dana 60):

Mostly uneventful and was a direct bolt in. I did find a broken main leaf on the passenger side, so I need to address that. I just snugged down the bolts for now.

Rear Axle (Corporate 14 Bolt):

Not so much a direct bolt in. The center to center on the spring pads is narrower on the 1979 axle. It went together but you can see that the springs and the u-bolts are leaning inwards. These bolts are also just barely snugged. New spring perches are on order and I will weld them in place in the right spot.

Re: Fix the '66: Build Thread
 

You might want to check out this build thread, page one he starts swapping to newer suspension and eliminates the blocks, can help with ride and parts availability. Good to see you getting work in on the truck, not many 4x4 builds around

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=768827

Re: Fix the '66: Build Thread
 

I will likely switch to 73-87 springs all the way around at some point, but not right now. There are too many other costly repairs that this build is going to require. Besides, the stock springs and bushings appear to be in good shape so I am just going to move the perches for now. Perches were only $30 from Ruffstuff.

Re: Fix the '66: Build Thread
 

I finished my steering shaft last night. I cut the stock shaft and welded a borgeson universal joint in. The pitman arm is loose on the steering box, so I need to figure that out. And the drag link is just there to check length, I have all new steering components on order.

Re: Fix the '66: Build Thread
 

Got ya, I was just suggesting it since you had found a broken main leaf and would be revisiting the rear suspension at some point.

Re: Fix the '66: Build Thread
 

I went through the un-known mileage 5.3 that will be going in the truck. It was disgusting, so I pressure washed and painted everything. I changed every gasket and seal with the exception of the head gaskets. I put in a new melling oil pump. The timing chain was tight and the internals looked good. I also found this tag on the head that tells me that it MIGHT be rebuilt. Overall I am into this engine ~$200

I got a Holley intake and MSD box for cheap on Ebay and will run a Truck Avenger clone for now. I am insisting on a round air cleaner when I pop the hood, so I wont be running the stock LS EFI. If I struggle with the carb, I will get a Holley Sniper.

Re: Fix the '66: Build Thread
 

I stripped the rotten insulation off of the floor and wire wheeled, scrubbed, and pressure washed all the grime. Then I painted it with two coats of POR15 Grey. I have one small rust hole to repair on the driver side, but everything else is solid! Once I have the new engine/trans bolted in, I will patch the hole for the old T-Case, and throw in some carpet.

Re: Fix the '66: Build Thread
 

Looking good man! and yeah that looks like a reman engine tag so if the motor overheated they know not to warranty it. Depending on who did the rebuild that could be a good thing with fresh bearings and rings etc but some horror shops out there still.

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Well I am going to run it and see what happens! I got the engine for free and spent very little on gaskets, seals, and a new oil pump from Rockauto.

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Engine and transmission are bolted together and ready to swing into the truck. I will be gutting the truck and painting the engine bay over the next couple weeks. Hopefully I have good pictures to share soon.

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I made more progress this weekend. I pulled out the 305 V6, SM420, and Rockwell case. Painted the engine bay, and am ready for the LS!

Re: Fix the '66: Build Thread
 

Big weekend for the '66! We installed the LS and the SM465/NP205. I ended up fabricating the motor mounts with some off the shelf parts as well as relocating the pedestals for the 305 V6. It came out solid, so I am excited.

As for the transmission mount, that is $20 of scrap steel from the local metal yard and an Amazon transmission mount. It is stout and I was able to tuck the NP205 up into the frame so far that it will not catch on anything! I could run a flat skid plate if I choose to!

Unfortunately I did have to notch the frame rails to fit the factory LS manifolds. I don't have any concerns about compromising frame integrity.

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I finished plumbing the cooling system. I got a Champion LS swap radiator and its a perfect fit! I am running an Autometer mechanical temp gauge so I had to put a tee in the heater hose to have a place to run it. The fittings in the heads are metric and too small to use an adapter bushing.