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Mental help needed, please.
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Ok, I'm having straight forward decision making "funk" for lack of a better term. I need you all to help. Not so short back story: I've got a 1971 GMC K2500/flatbed, with a 350/ TH350/ NP205, Dana 70 dually rear-end, Dana 44 front 4.10 gears( Un-confirmed, that is what the "tag" on both axles says). I've already done a complete tune up(plugs, wires, cap, rotor, new HEI innerds, including weights and springs) rebuilt the Edelbrock 1406 that came with it and completely rebuilt the fuel system(tank, sending unit, fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel line to the carb) I've also replaced the starter and flex plate (both were missing teeth).I've also replaced mounts/lights/ and other aesthetic parts. .. At this point I'm getting frustrated... It will not time correctly or run smooth. I've tried finding TDC using a piston stop and it is way off(yes I rotated it by hand both directions and then found the middle) it will not stay "timed" I set it 12 dgrs advanced, shut of the truck, come back 10 mins later and it is "out" by 2 dgrs(either direction). There is also noticeable slop when turning the crank by hand to when the rotor actually starts turning. This to me tells me my chain/gears are toast and at some point I've developed a tick/tap in the driver's side of the engine that sound suspiciously like a lifter/valve/rocker or similar on #7.
**At this point I'm at a cross-roads.** 1) Do I continue to patch this possibly original ( I think the heads were replaced at some point) 53 year old engine "because it runs"? OR 2) Swap in a Factory GM long block "TBI" 350 crate motor that has been sitting in the crate since 2017? Any and all advice is welcome/appreciated. |
Re: Mental help needed, please.
I would say swap it out.
You will be time and money ahead. |
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Swap it and get it on the road to enjoy. If it is the original engine you will still have it and you can take your time tearing it down and really seeing what you have.
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Tell us more about this tbi crate motor.
What’s the specs on it? I’d keep plugging along. You’ve got a running motor to learn stuff from. |
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Crate motor. -Kevin |
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Re: Mental help needed, please.
You already have a Crate Motor. Use it.
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It's your hobby. Spend your time, money and mental energy(aka "spoons") where you find them to be rewarding
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since the truck isn't original and unmolested I say do the crate motor and be driving it in a day or so. save your old one and build it up as time and $$$$ allow.
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Re: Mental help needed, please.
since the truck isn't original and unmolested I say do the crate motor and be driving it in a day or so. save your old one and build it up as time and $$$$ allow.
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Re: Mental help needed, please.
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Re: Mental help needed, please.
How complete is it?
Does it have a distributor, intake, roller or flat tappet cam, fuel pump push rod, etc. Bunch of things you gotta know before swapping. |
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Re: Mental help needed, please.
What I’m angling towards is it might not be an easy swap.
You’ll need an electric fuel pump with a bypass regulator and fuel return line. Specs show a flat tappet cam. The distributor that came with it will have the right gear on it. Of course you’ll need to do a normal cam break in. And a pre-lube. Also possibly a different flex plate. And the water pump is likely a long one which requires different pullies. All kinds of things to consider. |
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Re: Mental help needed, please.
There you go, drill a hole, use a mechanical pump. Problem solved.
I did consider that but there are a couple pitfalls. A jig isn’t cheap. What rod to use that’s compatible with the cam lobe. Does the cam have a fuel pump lobe. Some don’t. You don’t absolutely need to have a return line. Pump’s can burn out faster if you don’t. I’m just trying to point out all the little things that can turn your weekend engine swap into your truck sitting idle for 6 months. |
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You could change the manifold on the TBI engine and use a carburetor with an electric pump with no return line. It would be basically the same setup you have now, and the only additional electrical item to add is a relay from the switched source for the pump and choke. Otherwise, I believe there would be some sensors to add along with a computer.
Once you go that full TBI swap route, there would be no sense in going back to a carburetor because of all the other stuff you'd be removing. I think it's a matter of change to TBI now, or just enough to keep it going reliably. Invest a lot of time and effort now, or just enough until a later date of your choosing. I would choose a carbureted engine swap, with minimal time spent on it, and get to using the truck soon. |
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You might get lucky seeing thru a drainback hole or pull the pan and look upwards.
I’m starting to think your best bet is sell the crate and buy a motor more suitable. One with a mechanical pump and a roller cam. |
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