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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
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It hasn't been on the road since 2001. The VIN tag, the partial VIN on the frame, the VIN on the SPID and the VIN on the door sticker all match, which will be nice when it comes time to get a VIN verification at the DMV.
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
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Air brakes
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
I like the truck, and good plan.
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
Pat,
my old 69 K10 that i restored back in 95 had a 350, 465, 205 combination with 3:07 gears with 35 inch tires and on flat ground it got 18+ mpg, in the mountains i seldom used 4th gear pulling hills but off road in 4low first gear it would crawl fine. looks like a solid project and a good plan you have. |
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
Cool truck, I'm a more of a 67-8 we'll more 67, don't get me wrong I would have all 67- 72 if possible, not one I don't like. 69 and 70 4x4 to me, look the strongest, had a meaner tougher look, well that's me. Nice project you got there it Especially looks killer next to your 98. Caught my attention, had me curious for a spilt second, air brake LOL 🤣🤣.
NGN Nick |
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
Nice find! For what it’s worth my K20 has a 5” lift with 4:11’s, 35’s, with a 465 and it runs 65 mph at around 2500. With the assumed numerically lower half ton gears you’ll be even better than that. The shift spacing/RPM drops can kinda suck on the 465 with bigger tires, but with that L31 you should have the torque to do what’s needed. That looks like an excellent start to me. Get rid of the cobbled together crap on the hangers and you’ll be in business. Make sure and check around the steering box for cracks in the frame and also the front crossmember and engine cross member for loose rivets or bolts. The 4x4 trucks are pretty notorious for this. I’d add an ORD steering box brace that ties that area of the frame to the front crossmember, which triangulates the whole area. If the frame is cracked, several places sell the plates to fix it. The swb K10 and blazers have thinner/weaker frames than the lwb K trucks do so they do have the potential to crack more than the lwb K’s. Both my swb K10 and my K20 had cracks in the frame around the steering box.
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
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Looks like it had had some repairs done to it.
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Picked up a windshield yesterday, and received a Precision seal for it. Sprayed the opening black in preparation for install.
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Yep that definitely has had some work done. You have the factory brace so that is a good thing. Neither of my trucks had it. Some got it some didn’t.
My suggestion… strip it down and be really sure of what you’ve got. If it wasn’t repaired correctly those cracks will continue to spread. This is the repairs I did to my K10 last winter just so you can see what it entails. Mine had been poorly repaired in the past and had several cracks that had still spread after the repairs. I drilled both ends of every crack I found and then “V” beveled them as deep as I could without cutting thru the rail then filled them back in with the Mig and flap disked almost smooth; I always try to leave the top a little high when I can so as not to thin the metal out too much. Then once that was done I welded the repair plates over top. Be really sure you get every one. They can be hard to see at times. Mine got ran for a long time with no front crossmember so it was really bad compared to my K20 because of the extra flex and movement in the frame rails. Note the washer welded to the top of the frame where the front crossmember is now bolted. I did this on all the holes for the front crossmember and the engine crossmember. The holes in the washer a drilled ever so slightly undersize of 7/16 so I could ensure a tight fit in with every thing and do my best to eliminate all chances of movement in the frame. |
Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
Thanks! I will pull off the steering box and give it a thorough inspection.
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These two cracks actually opened up with a loud “pop” as I was welding another on the side of the rail in an area near by. I ended up wire wheeling the rail to bare metal nearly a foot on both sides of the repair area as much as possible to make sure I got them all. This is the bottom view of the crack circled in black above.
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
Dang. Hopefully any cracks in my frame will be visible from the steering box side. It would be a real challenge to remove the plate someone welded to the inside.
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
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I can see one crack directly forward if the steering box.
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
I’d bet it probably goes from one of the steering box holes to that bottom rivet. Definitely look all that over really close. I got my plates for my K20 from ORD and for my K10 I got them here. Same identical parts but 1/2 the cost.
https://www.amazon.com/G-PLUS-Suppor.../dp/B09WMBFC1C |
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I'm glad you got it. It looks like decent start..Welcome to the K club!!
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