Door gap/fit questions
 

Hello everyone,

I'm working on the cab of my 68 and getting ready to gap the doors. I have two similar issues on both sides:

1. the vertical gap at the rear is way too large (roughly 3/8"), and the hinge prevents the door from going farther back. Should I use shims under the door side of the hinges to push the doors farther back? If so, that's a lot of shims.

2. Both doors overhang the rocker about 1/4" at the front of the rocker, less so as it tapers toward the rear. Should I loosen the door hinges and try to pull the door out at the top hinge, which should in theory push it in at the bottom, or cut and widen the rocker, or bend the door in? Or a combination of all of the above? Both doors are not original to the cab, so I'm just trying to make it all work. I can post pics if necessary but I think you get the idea. I don't have weatherstrip and door bumpers installed yet either. Should I do that before final fitting? Appreciate your input.

Re: Door gap/fit questions
 

The threaded holes in the cab that the hinges attach to are in hidden plates inside the pillar that can slide forward and backward to adjust the rear gap of the door. If you loosen all of the hinge-to-cab bolts, then you should be able to scoot the hinges rearward to reduce the gap.

Re: Door gap/fit questions
 

Thanks. Yes, I've been taking the doors on and off and the hinge plates flop around inside the pillar. I have them back as far as they will go.

Re: Door gap/fit questions
 

Do like most of the high-end restorers do.. Weld a wire to the back edge of the door and then metal finish it to the gap you desire. About 2 years ago, I had a conversation with one of those shops. He pointed to a door that was ready for final painting and said, "As of today, I've got 45 hours in that door.."

Re: Door gap/fit questions
 

My Burban has rockers that are tucked in at the front too. I did the door dance to attempt to get the rocker to fit nice but, in the end all that did was pull the door window frame out at the top and made the door hard to close after the weatherstripping was installed. I got the best fit I could with what GM gave me and moved my OCD to other things .

I debated on either replacing the rocker, removing and repositioning the window frame or living with it. Nowdays it never crosses my mind. :lol:

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Re: Door gap/fit questions
 

Good advice
45 hrs x 100.00hr. That 3/8 gap would look better and better with everyday pasted. I played the dance too and got it best I could. That hanger idea is a great option though if crazy off.
I replaced the full floor and rockers on my 72, and had a close eye keeping the gaps correct welding it back up. You could easily put some extra space in there.
:metal:
Sounds like your making some good progress on your project though.

Re: Door gap/fit questions
 

Great stuff guys, thanks. Not letting the perfect be the enemy of the good is easier said than done sometimes. I'm not building a show truck, but it's hard to leave well enough alone sometimes. I need to have it done and drivable by early to mid August though, so I need to just do my best and hopefully that's enough.

Re: Door gap/fit questions
 

That’s my plan too.
Drive this summer and fix any flaws that I come across or bug me this winter.

Re: Door gap/fit questions
 

Remember, none of these trucks were perfect coming off the line. My 68 had lots of issues, the worst I fixed, but the rest I kept as is, part of the charm of days gone by.

Re: Door gap/fit questions
 

X2. :metal:

Re: Door gap/fit questions
 

The gapping is time consuming but worth it as vehicles with proper gap look so good. I’m going through this issue right now with an old tailgate that needs to be properly adjusted.

Good luck