Changing cab mounts
 

I was up under the truck today, was looking at the cab mounts, and noticed that the two front mounts have studs with the actual frame portion sandwiched between the two rubber portions.
Changing the lower part is easy, but I’m curios as to get the upper part switched out.
Anyone have experience with this?
I’m really hoping that the answer isn’t that I have to “raise the cab to clear the mount”.
Any insight is greatly appreciated :smoke:

Re: Changing cab mounts
 

Some of them have the heads of the bolts tack welded on the top side of the floor, others don’t. They should just be bolts either way. You just have to get the bolt out then jack the cab up with a block of wood high enough to get the old rubber out and the new one in. I’m fairly certain St. Louis trucks had the front bolts welded to the dimples in the floor… pull the carpet or floor mat back and you’ll see what I mean, especially if you have a truck with the welded bolts lol.

Re: Changing cab mounts
 

As said you will have to jack up the side. Don't try to jack it high enough with the front bolt still in. Do one side at a time so you don't move the cab. I bought a kit from Classic industries and they were shorter than they should have been. I had to shim them up to make the body lines match. I ended up shimming the rear more than the front. Then my doors were hitting the strike when closing. I put a small shim in the front and it somewhat corrected that problem. You should change the front/radiator support mounts at the same time. If you don't you can have issues with body lines. Finally I had to tweak the ft lb setting on all four cab mounts to get the doors to close smoothly. I don't know how anyone could tighten them to the factory setting laying under the truck. You wouldn't think the cab could flex, but apparently it can. Someone posted that a long time ago. It will flex because the frame certainly won't and that's why my doors were wonky. Also, ask people on the forum about rubber vs poly nounts. I used rubber as original.

Re: Changing cab mounts
 

In a word -- yes, you have to raise the cab, but not as difficult as you think.. There are 6 mounting points counting the 2 at the front under the core support.. You'll need a good floor jack and a 4X4 about 18 - 20 inches long.. Pick a side (either side) and remove the nuts, washers, and spacers (if equipped) on that side of the cab and remove the same parts on the core support on that same side.. On the other side, loosen the nuts but don't remove any of them. Unscrew the nuts to the end of the bolt. Place the 4X4 on the foot of the jack and position the 4X4 under the rocker panel of the side where you removed the parts.. Slowly jack up the cab (the fender and core support will go up also.. You only need to raise it 2 - 3 inches.. Just enough to replace the mounts.. When everything is in place, lower the jack and install the lower rubber mounts along with the washers and nuts.. Install them only finger tight.. Go to the other side and repeat the process.. Tighten all nuts to about 50 ft lb and you're done..

Re: Changing cab mounts
 

Otis is a Fremont built truck, and he had the welded front cab mount bolts also.

Re: Changing cab mounts
 

You have to lift the cab . I’ve only had one truck that the bolt was welded to the floor pan it isn’t just tacked as you can see in the picture . I’m doing mounts right now on that truck does make it a little more difficult but still doable . Passenger side is easy the drivers side I was able to get the old mount out but I’m thinking I need to loosen the column and the take the clamp off the on the frame for the brake lines to master . I also have the front clip off so YMMV .