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Chevy 250 firing order
Hey guys I have a question about the routeing of the spark plug wires on My truck. I have never seen a Chevy 250 with wires routed this way. number one on the distributor isn’t at number one cylinder. the truck runs okay no backfiring but I think it could definitely have more power. Could the distributor installed wrong?
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Re: Chevy 250 firing order
https://ibb.co/Kp7YjMBG here is the image of routing that I forgot.
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Re: Chevy 250 firing order
I'm not sure what you mean by, "number one on distributor isn't at number one cylinder"??? The mark on the balancer indicates TDC for #1 cylinder and #6 cylinder.. According to the firing order (1-5-3-6-2-4) the wires are correctly installed. Numbers 1 and #6 pistons come up together, #5 and #2 come up together, and #3 and #4 come up together.. To verify all this, put a timing light on it and see...
The best advice I have you for this situation is: If it ain't broke, don't be trying to fix it.. |
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Here is my defaulkt picture when I forget.
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The distributor can be installed in any orientation as long as the wires reach their respective plugs and there is no mechanical interference (like a vacuum pod hitting on something).
If it runs fine with no backfiring then it is ok. Look for more power elsewhere. K |
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1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4
Old sexist memory line: Fifteen's too young. Thirty Six is too old. Twenty Four is just right. Looking at your offsite picture, it looks like your Distributor is set up 180* out from normal. I don't know if that will affect Vacuum Advance operation or not? But it might. Your No. 6 terminal is acting as No 1. Successive terminals are in correct firing order. Might be best to get it Stock again. You can reset it by first finding Top Dead Center on Cyl #1 and Timing Marks on the Harmonic Balancer lined up. Rotor should then point forward or even at Cylinder #1. Then follow the above firing order. That should help. |
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Yes guys who are too freaking lazy or incompentant to do it right do that. It is not something to suggest and is not something any professional wants to follow behind the clown that did that. |
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This, if it is worth doing it is worth doing right. It isn't that hard and it doesn't jack around with someone following behind you who will learn to hate you even though they never met you real quick. I just spent several days trying to get the right upper radiator hose for my 77 F250 with a 300 six. Finally after looking at Ford truck radiators year to year I figured out that someone in the past had put a 65/67 radiator in it. This is a stone stock truck that that same person also swapped out the electronic distributor for points. |
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Something else to think about: the harmonic balancer’s outer ring could have slipped, so using the balancer to determine when the engine is at #1 TDC is not foolproof.
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I identify with 68OrangeSunshine. Too young, too old, just right. Learned that back in the late 60's.
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So do I need to pull the distributer? to reset the firing order or can I put it on Tdc and swap the wires I don’t have much experience on these kind of ignition systems I stick to painting cars. Thanks for the help guys.
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Re: Chevy 250 firing order
>>or can I put it on Tdc <<
You can't just simply put it on TDC. It has to be TDC on the Compression stroke. That's what the last guy did. He put it on TDC on the Exhaust stroke and instead of re-stabbing the distributor, he simply moved the wires. I'm more bothered by the fuel line running through in between the plug wires and the #3 plug wire wrapped around the High voltage terminal on the coil. |
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Okay I understand what you’re saying I’ve just been worried about why my distributer was set up since I got the truck 2 years ago I didn’t know you could set the distributor anywhere like that. I appreciate the help. I don’t like how the fuel line is ether should I route it above the wires?
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Jeepers! This give "Six Appeal" a whole new meaning:lol: |
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To find Top Dead Center, I pull the #1 sparkplug and advance the crank until a long new pencil with rubber eraser is pushed up the most. If the Timing marks are lined up it's there.* If the Rotor is not pointing at Cyl #1, pull the Distributor up and point it -- allow for the gearing which will pull it over a point or two. Once the Rotor is set properly, lock it down and resequence your plugwires. * If your HB is spun, you'll want to tackle that issue first. If that gets loose it can fly off and make the fan chew the radiator. Good time to check your Vacuum Advance can. If you suck on the Carb end of the 1/4'' hose does it move? It should point around 7 o'clock depending on degree of initial advance. With the Rotor in the wrong position, the Vacuum Advance may have been impeded. :chevy: |
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This is how I ran my fuel line in my old 250 build. Since I went to a 4bbl intake and carb I bent a new line to match the original just made it longer to reach the 4;l
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68 Sunshine
>> I have a 292 and the fuel pump is forward to begin with. << Where's your 292 fuel pump ? I'm sure yours is located same as my 292. Bought three different brand fuel pumps and couldn't find one under 12psi. Chinese crap. I went straight up over the valve cover. Wouldn't you know it, couple months ago I had to replace the valve cover gasket. |
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Is that a Fuel Pressure Regulator in line on your fuel feed? About 4 - 5 years ago, my truck stopped on the street, on the way to work. Killed me for a whole shift. Had to get towed home. I suspected the Fuel Pump, so I replaced it. Still No Go. It was the Module to the HEI. Changed it out and it was fine. So I saved my old Known-Good fuel pump [from before the Asian Invasion] in the box and stow it where the stock jack stuff goes. And of course, a fresh HEI Module and capsule of white spooge in the glovebox for GP. But I feel your pain on bogus fuel pumps. Went thru several on the 350 V8 in the '71 Jimmy. One only lasted 100 miles. Can't even trust Delphi or AC-Delco anymore. |
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