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Brake light gremlin is back
Before I put a NEW wiring harness in my 70 my driver side brake light would work when it felt like it. One day yes next day no. Anyway my Son and I put a WHOLE NEW HARNESS from American Auto Wire ($763) in and everything worked Perfect. We even put some new grounds in like Cab to Frame, Bed to Frame. Engine and battery were already grounded to frame
After a month of working perfect IT CAME BACK. I’m about to lose it |
Re: Brake light gremlin is back
1157 dual-filament bulb, right? If so, does the turn signal for that side also work intermittently?
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Swap the metal taillight housing from one side to the other and see if the symptoms move.
My ‘68 had a dim taillight which turned out to be a high-resistance connection between the metal cylinder that the bulb attaches to…..and its crimp to the main taillight housing which acts as the actual ground path to the bed (red arrow). Similar - this was day 1 after a new AAW harness. Bought 2 new aftermarket taillight housings and the lights are now perfect. You may just have impossible-to-see corrosion between that crimped connection. |
Re: Brake light gremlin is back
The turn signal switch is deeply involved in the brake light circuit. Since the brake light filaments share duty with the turn signal filaments, the turn signal switch has to separate these circuits.. The dark green wire provides power to the right-rear brake/turn signal..
When the failure is occurring, back probe the dark green wire on the turn signal harness plug at the column. If voltage is present, there is an intermittent open somewhere in the harness between this plug and the bulb. If no voltage is present, the turn signal switch is faulty. |
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I didn't see where the turn signal switch was replaced. I'm not blaming it, but if everything else has been replaced...what is left?
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With the brakes applied work the turn signal switch and see what happens. Put the back of the truck near a wall and observe the lights in the rear view mirror.
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The more I think about this one the more I suspect it |
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Thank You RustyPile. This is what I Love about this site. You present a problem and people respond, my bad for missing your post but Guess What, that was it. If I put on the brakes and then the turn signals right after they cancel the left brake light stops working. Turn the signal back on and you get brake light. If you just turn off the signal without turning the wheel the brake light works. Definitely will replace turn signal switch but also thinking New column as this is an Auto Tilt Column and I now have a Manual trans
Once again thank you and everyone else that gave input. Anybody have suggestions on a Manual Tilt Column |
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Way to go Rusty! Say hi to your brother Gomer.;)
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One school of thought is “why scrimp on a steering column that’s so important - buy the flaming river for $1300 or so.” The other is “there are oodles of folks using this type of column and I haven’t heard a real-world example of one falling apart, so try it out and hope for the best.” I’ve driven mine 11,000 miles with 275 tires and manual steering…and have cranked on the wheel awful hard in parking lots etc - nothing seems to be coming loose or seems like it’s failing. Your results may vary…? (Attempted to paste in the link but it just keeps launching a blank page - maybe poke around on eBay - I think most probably come from the same factory overseas and are resold by eBay sellers) |
Re: Brake light gremlin is back
Summit has this steering column.
Link: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLA-FR20007-36BK Jegs has these. Link: https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...nnelSource=WEB |
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Not sure how this subject has made its way onto this thread, but here's something you absolutely must read before buying an aftermarket steering column. It's a 2013 article, so some of the cheapies may be safer now, but I wouldn't bet my life on it. Scary stuff!
https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/i...ng_Columns.pdf The only aftermarket column I've had experience with was an Ididit in a 55 Chevy car I had just purchased. It was a few inches too long for me, so I sent it to Ididit to have it shortened. They charged me $50 including return shipping, which I thought was more than fair. But here's the main thing: When I got it back, I realized they had installed several new parts, including a new turn signal switch. When I called to thank them, the guy I spoke with said since was all apart they decided to rebuild it under their lifetime warranty! It's probably the most impressive service I've ever received from a vendor/manufacturer. |
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Decided to keep the column I have now as it’s an original 72. When I rewired my truck I don’t know why but I never even thought about the Turn Signal Switch,Go Figure.
I Removed the signal switch, ya it needed replaced. |
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I suggest using an AC Delco replacement. I've been 100% satisfied with them, wherever they are made. Typically it's in a GM facility in Mexico. |
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The original switch in my K/10 looked like that. I cleaned the contacts with Scotchbrite, lubricated it, and reinstalled it. It's working great. I have had issues with reproduction switches. One had an issue where the horn contact spring clip stuck out and created a short, which caused the horn to be on permanently. Another had an issue where it did a poor job of canceling the turn signal in one direction.
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