Steering correction for 8" lift
 

I'm looking for either a 2" pitman drop arm, 3" steering block, or a adustable drag link drop arm for a 1977 K-20 with a Dana 44. I have the 4" steering arm in it now but plan to move up to a 8" lift real soon. If anybody has any of these setting on the shelf and would like to sell it, please let me know.
Thanks,
Dana

Check out ebay, saw a bunch of steering componets today looking for something else.

You might want to consider cross-over steering. It uses a 2wd gear box and a drag link that crosses to the passenger side and steering arm that connects to the steering knuckle. www.offroaddesign.com sells them.

They are not the only place that has crossover steering..one thing with them is they do not supply a flat top knuckle.Which you will need seeing you have a '77 and most likely does not have a flat top on the passenger side..
These were called down style knuckles on the older years.
A place I know www.blackbirdscustomtrucks.com Sells the whole setup with a passenger knuckle and options to get the driverside too.

They also will talk to you and get correct measurements for the length of crossover tube.Crossover page

I would save and do the crossover. It is way better in the long run for durability, and lasting.
No bind what so ever and easy to install hydro assist later on to help move the big tires.


Had a buddy with the stock side used for a 10 suspension lift and a raised arm and superlift draglink.. wore out fast..
and cost almost as much to replace parts


Just an idea to go with..
Look around on the net for prices..

drink2mny,

Does that pitman arm fit on a 4WD steering box???

They don't mention anything about it, on the site, and most of the ones Ive seen require a 2WD steering sector...

also, Is the hole, in the steering arm, angled, to put the drag link ends closer to their center of travel, when the vehicle is at rest???

-Marty

That is something I will retype on the page that is missing.
The arm is for a 2wd steering box(besure to get a truck one not a van, they are different).

As for the arm, no we do not angle them. We haven't found a need to have them machined with the angle..
If you go back to the website and look in the trucks & video page, all the vehicles on that page have our steering plus about 20-30 more.
Installed between the d44 and d60.
The yellow truck which was in a thread i posted last week has it with hydro assist. and the jeeps down on the bottom trail, and rock climb with D44's..

They have no binding issue..As for daily driving and playing in the mud, I can tell youI personally haven't had any issues on my blazer. It takes the bump steer 98% away.


Sorry danadena1960

Didn't mean to hijack your thread..

Hey Guys,
I would love to do the cross over steering but can not afford to. What do ya'll think would be the best conbination? The guy at the off road shop I ordered the springs from said I only need to add the 2" pitman arm. I'm thinking a 3" block in conjuction with the steering arm I already have would work better, not to mention it is $30 cheaper. What do ya'll think?
Thanks,
Dana

I'd say the pitman arm. The block would increase the stress on the knuckle more since it already has a raised arm.

Got the pitman arm on order.
Thanks alot ya'll for the help, now I'll have to get it all together.
Thanks again,
Dana

With such a lift, why not just get a 6"- 8" drop pitman arm? Just curious being that I have an 8" lift and am putting it back together and plan on getting a fairly substancially dropped pitman arm, is this wrong to do? Thanks

I think skyjacker has a steering arm for 6-8" lift now that you mention it. I think it's like $150. Did not know any body made a 6-8" drop pitman arm.

edit skyjacker p/n CA150 is 6-8". They also have a kit (steering and pitman arms for 8") p/n SK10

The 2" pitman arm is p/n CA50.

A pitman arm with that much drop would put way too much strain on the frame where the steering box mounts and on the output shaft bearing in the steering gear. IMO crossover is the only way to get safe steering if you are over 6 inches of lift.

I agree with Blazer1970..
Not trying to pawn off our kits, just giving you insight to the world of crossover steering...

I have been wheeling for about 8 years and have crossover steering on a dana 44 now 60.. I have spent hardly any money for replacement parts compared to when i had the skyjacker componants dropped pitmat and raised arm..
Cost me an arm and a leg to keep together. THEY WEAR OUT FAST with big lifts and big tires..
I'm not saying they don't work, but I would encourage you to save for a crossover setup.. you would be alot happier in the long run with articulation and bumpsteer.. Upgraded companants for the drivers side do nothing to help these problems out with big lifts and tires...

I know you have probably read the other post but here is the trhead anyway.. I tired to explain what the benifits are for crosover steering...

Again it is a person own preference what they want for there rigs..But I feel you should know, if you wheel this rig and daily drive it with (what size tires??????) big tires those parts are going to wear out fast and guess what, you replace joints that are skyjackers cost almost as much as when you first bought it

Here is the thread
http://67-72chevytrucks.net/vboard/s...326#post724326

drink2mny- so basically if I wanted to do crossover sterring on my '72 with '75 3/4 ton axles it would cost me $400 for the kit plus whatever else to buy a 2 wheel drive steering box?

Still a bit expensive but yet it would be nice to have.

I'm not going to knock drink2mny or anybody elses crossover kit as I'm sure they are all fine and quality components. I on the other hand, didn't want to spend that kind of money so I did a little research on the subject and found out how to build my own. It's so easy, however, I know someone that can weld like there is no tomorrow.

I'm into my complete crossover steering setup for about $70. It's no complicated, it's not difficult, and in my case, it just takes knowing someone that can do an excellent job at welding cast iron for a very reasonable price. The only added parts you need to get are a 2wd steering box w/ pitman arm and an additional long tie-rod assembly (like the one you already have on your trucks). The rest is fabrication.

If you can line-up a good welder that won't charge you an arm and a leg, email or PM me and I'll give you all the details of what needs to be done. Once again, I'm not trying to bash on the kits that are out there (like Blackbirds or ORD's or whoever) I'm just saying that it can be done for alot less than a kit if you want to do the research and finding parts at a reasonable price.

Pont

PS, you can even PM frenchblue72 as he has seen my crossover setup and can vouch for what's all involved.

By looking at our website yes. But I just run the website and don't make the prices..
Randy the owner wanted to be in the same ballpark as the bigger companies prices. He has said he might bring the price down depending on the situation of the buyer and then maybe make that the standard price on the site..
One difference with our site than most is the fact we already have a passeger side flat top steering knuckle drilled and tapped to match the steering arm and we will supply the matching drivers side if neccessary..

Thank you Pont for being kind. I will agree with hime people can make there own kits..There are several 4x4 sites and a few other messege boards that have this info on it for free.
We just know people don't have time or connections to get it handled up for them.

Hey Pont not to steal a design from you but I don't really understand were the welding comes into play..unless your not using a flat top knuckle..I can see where machining does for the bar and arm and knuckle but we don't have anything to be welded on the D44 and 60 kits..

Just curious

Thanks

Drink2mny, sorry for the long delay, I forgot to come back and check this thread.

Where the welding comes into play in my application, is on the passenger knuckle. I do have flat top knuckles but in addition to bolting the arm to the passenger knuckle, mine is also welded. I have seen and heard of people breaking those studs (or bolts) under extreme conditions and I would rather not take that chance. From what I hear, welding cast iron can be tricky (never tried it myself) so I had a someone weld that piece for me. Cheap insurance in my opinion and I don't see any reason or need to take that arm of the passenger knuckle.

Other than that small amount of welding, my crossover setup is probably about the same as all the others out there.

Rob

I will have to agree with drink2mny better to suck it up now any do it correctly you will save money in the long run and will be happier with the performance.