my new 71 K20 Dana 44 front axle
 

Here's some pics of my front axle that I just finished. IMO, The pics do not do justice to how well the axle turned out, if I do say so myself. Enjoy.

http://www.ccountry.net/~tmobrien/tr...0after%202.jpg

http://www.ccountry.net/~tmobrien/tr...0after%202.jpg

http://www.ccountry.net/~tmobrien/tr...0after%202.jpg

Nice! I hope mine turns out as good as yours...what did you use?

I just bought a 71 3/4 ton k20 for frame off restoration. Up front I've got a Dana 44. The mystery is in the 10 bolt rear...it looks like a ford 9" axle, but I can't find it listed anywhere on the 'Axle ID websites'. I want to change the ratio before sandblasting and painting. Do I have an original chevy rear axle? If so, is it worth keeping, where can I find out more information, order parts..etc?

looks nice! what are the yellow lockouts from?

welcome to the board, 71k20. you have what is called the Eaton HO52 axle, it is the predecessor of the 14 bolt. you should search the board to find out more about the axle, and so we can keep this post on topic.

1969 GMC is correct. It is an Eaton.
It is correct for your truck and is really a very strong rear end.
I am changing one of my trucks over to 14FF and adding rear discs. Several of the local mud draggers are lined up to buy my Eaton when it comes out.
Parts, forget it. You will have to buy someone elses. But you should not need parts in most cases. Remember, it is still working after 30+ years now. As long as you are not crazy with it, you should be fine.

I used NOS parts for the lockouts shown here:

http://www.ccountry.net/~tmobrien/tr...ub%20parts.jpg

The knobs are for a 73-79 K20; they fit my color scheme better; the originals for 69-72 should have blue knobs.

And here is the rear Eaton HO-52 I posted here before; you can get bearings and seals for these anywhere, but that's about it:

http://www.ccountry.net/~tmobrien/tr...le%20after.jpg

Very nice detail work Apache! How do you feel about mud though?;)

I have researched the eaton ho 52 and ho72 and you can buy a ring and pinion but the highest is 390's. if you want to know the diference between a 72 and a 52 the 72 has a adjustable screw on the drivers side of the third member.

Thanks for the welcome and feedback on my rear axle, I'll search the board for more info on the HO-52....

60apache4 I could use some advice on the detail work you've done on your axle and frame...etc?

Can't decide the best route to go. I here some folks speak highly of POR15, while others claim an Epoxy with eurathane top coat looks better and last longer. I know absolutely squat about either! In fact, this is the first time for me to restore frame up.

Today we pulled the 400 small block(3951511), and everything but the cab(haven't figured out the best way to do this yet). Anyway, I found a shop that will sandblast the frame for $150. I'm not sure if the price is fair, but it seems pretty reasonable considering the hassle. All I know is that the deeper I get into this truck, the more eager I am to see things done...I actually dreamed about working on it last night! I think my wife is getting jeolous....she may have to go!!!:D

Thanks for the info 72-396. Where can I order?

I know you hardcore rockcrawlers are going to laugh, but I've got a 4.56 that screams at 60mph. I'm looking for a 3.73 so I can cruise at 70(hopefully). I like to play in the mudd, but nothing serious. As for towing...21 ft boat mostly, nothing heavy.:burnout:

progress
 

Tom, looks like your making good progress. Are those the lockout housings i sold ya? Did you put a locker inside? Keep up the good work

I am ready to do my front end.
Here is my question.
What is the proper way to have it cleaned for paint? I mean that I assume sandblasting is fine, but is there a need to totally disassemble the unit and protect all grease areas or can it be taped off and done complete? I have it stripped to the tube.
It was a 1/2 ton and will be 3/4 when I am done. So all spindles and backing plates came off anyway.

slowly but surely this thing is coming together; personally I would not sandblast an axle housing with the bearings and gearset still in place. If your axle tube is empty then I would make sure to thoroughly wash it down in solvent or get it hot tanked at a machine shop. To tell the truth I did mine the old fashioned, backyard mechanic way and power washed it with my 1500psi sprayer, used lots of degreaser ( i hear oven cleaner works too), used a wire wheel in my drill, sand with 400 grit sandpaper, and thoroughly wash and degrease again...I painted it with satin black paint through a siphon feed spray gun. I am building this truck to be a driver, but if I had to do it again I would have the chassis powder coated...I had the disc brakes turned; the wheel bearings were fine - just cleaned and repacked them, new seal; rebuilt the calipers and brake lines myself; had the backing plates replated with gold zinc di-chromate.

72396 - the rear HO52/72 has to do with the GVW rating, not the side thrust screw adjustment. even my chevelle has the side thrust screw.

71K20 - drop me a pm via the board if you have any specific questions.

Bruce - sorry, but I got an NOS set of rings from joesjunk; I put yours on my parts shelf for safe keeping; can't seem to find a locker for the rear that no one wants an arm and a leg for.

That's it for now...

Thanks for the post 60apache4. I've just started on my front and rear ends, they same way you did it.....a lot of elbow grease. What kind of paint did you use on the housings?

I also have a 70 K20 with D 44 in the front and an Eaton rear. I really want to find new drums for it but haven't had luck yet. ANyone know where to find them?