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a little clarification
I'm thinking of a 4-6 drop. would be enough to get it to the ride height I want.
I've poured though pictures for the last 6 months or so looking at the stance of different trucks. The ride quality is my major concern. I don't want tires rubbing body panels in any way.
For the front:
If I modified the front crossmember 1 1/2 inches like I saw on the suspension board and used the drop spindles ( I think they are 2 1/2 inch drop. I'll compare them to a stock set of spindles when I tear the front end apart.) that would give me a 4" drop allowing stock springs and shocks to be used.
I'm thinking using a new stock height spring and shock would give me the very best ride quality; Shy of maybe ditching the entire front crossmember and going to a custom built front crossmember like a fatman or Jim Meyer racing. Am I missing something in my thinking?
What kind of tire interferance might I run into with this game plan? In theory
this plan would be the same effect as Z-ing the frame to lower the front of the body over without moving the engine.
for the rear:
if I stay with the trailing arms lowering blocks and new shorter springs and relocated shocks appear to be my only option to get to six inches. Would the modified crossmember be needed to relocate the control arms? I see that one of the advantages of it would be driveshaft clearance and a modified way to route the exhaust through the crossmember.
If I go with the Art Morrison adjustable ladder bar setup I could have a lot of flexability because of the adjustments of the way the shock and spring tower mounts to set the ride height. and I can order different spring rates to get the ride quality. Again ride quality and tire interference are the major concerns.
As for my engine I'm currently planning on a 355" SB. But If I could find an LS1 and six speed manual or automatic that may be an option but in reality I don't see it happening.
Thanks, Vince
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