[ddsmith]

I had a divorced choke on my 71 Vette with a 454 and a holley spread bore carb that was converted to a manual choke. It worked fine but during the engine rebuild I decided to make the divorced choke work correctly and it works just like it should now. Some of the things that are not particularly great about the divorced choke is the heat riser valve. Most people take them out or wire them open. This prevents most of the exhaust gas from running through the intake manifold during cold start up which was what the heat riser valve was suppose to accomplish. It would shut when cool and drive the drivers side cylinder exhaust through the intake manifold center port and out the passenger side exhaust pipe. This in turn heated the carb up and the divorced choke heat stove. When the temp of the heat riser caused the valve to open then normal exhaust was restored. Most people also block the center port on the intake to prevent this hot gas flow. Usually with a gasket set which blocks the flow. This can lead to low temperature hesitation because the carb/intake is cold enough that the atomized fuel repuddles on the floor of the intake manifold. It's sort of funny. We what fuel warm for atomization purposes but we want air charge cool to pack more air into the cylinders. If the fuel heats up to much it can cause vapor lock situation or percolation of the fuel out of the fuel bowls causing to lean or to rich a mixture. Boy that fuel injection looks better and better the more you think about it. Good luck, hope all works out for you.
Just a P.S. the manual cable was hooked up at the top linkage to the choke plate originally. This created no real resistance for the cable which is good because as someone said the cable kits are usually cheap and mounting brackets are too.