[68LSS1]

OLDROCK&ROLLER, to get things back on track you let us know what you do. You can't change engines, tranny's, go to a one piece shaft, air ride suspensions, lower a vehicle and expect traction if u-joint angles are not a consideration. For the most part you will never have a issue until you have enough hp/tq to really stress the suspension and frame. I really feel that raising the tranny to level the engine has put the operating angles on the ragged edge of being acceptable. And it looks like you have enough torque to find this out. Good luck getting it figured out and let us know what/how you do.

Longhair, I guess we'll just agree to disagree. I don't think you're comparing apples to apples here. I agree that the loading and unloading of the suspension is wheel hop but what is setting (secondary) this in motion is the operating angles become the limit of the axle housing travel, the pinion snubber if you will. If the u-joint could still turn freely you wouldn't have the unloading until you had full traction or got out of it. As I previously stated and agreed to, these trailing arm (which are a lot longer than 3' by the way) trucks usually have no issues with these problems. If his engine mounts, tranny mount, trailing arm bushings, shocks (including operating angles) are all good you still could have enough of a deflection in operating (u-joint) angles especially since the tranny was raised to level the engine. As far as the adjustability of a 3/4 link for moving the instant center, I'm aware of this and how this works. It's also called anti-squat and believe me it's built into the chassis. But apples to apples. As far the the CE link, "This causes the springs to distort, resulting in severe driveshaft/U-joint misalignment." One last thing. I can't believe that with you being the lead mechanic in a 4X4 shop for ten years that you never experienced wheel hop after installing a suspension lift. The kits are a lot better now a days but years ago they were terrible about screwing up operating angles. But in your theory it shouldn't be possible to induce wheel hop by changing this. I know a bunch of BS right?

I've said what I said and I won't say another word in this thread. If either of you wish to respond here great. If either of you would like a response from me you'll have to email/PM as I would prefer this to get back to the topic at hand and that's getting OLDROCK&ROLLER some help because I know it sucks when you can't get your power to the ground.