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57sailplane · 03-30-2005, 04:16 PM

i emailed tom a long while back. i think he said he was running 150 lbs coil overs. not sure what brand. let me know what you find out. on size and brand because if it works why fix it.

i have done a lot of research in the area of traction. everything i have found out so far i am using to build my 67 shortbox stepside.

what i have found is first put back those stiffer springs in the rear or go with the coil overs. it use to be thought you want squat in the rear but in reality you want rise in the front to transfer weight to the rear. now by putting the those softer springs in the rear you cause chassis roll from front to back and thats what were after but the time period that the rear is squating from starting height to fully squated hite is actually the time were no weight is being transfered. with these soft springs this time frame is the same as a totally stiff set up (no weight transfer) at this point and if the tires break loose to a point of ablitoration during this time you gain nothing. now when the suspension is fully squated this is were the traction begins. all weight movement from the front and inertia is transfered to rear tires. but if the tires are burning off it is to late. some squat is permisable if tire just break loose then hook. but ultimatly you want no squat and front end rise for total bite. you may need the softer spring in back to get the ball a moving but minimum squat is ideal.

now wether you want total bite is another question cause some vehicals run faster with some tire spin cause its dosnt draw the rpms down as much off the line keeping the rpms in the power torque curve..

my set up will be rear coil over set up. with the stiffest antisway bar i can run. i will fine tune the sway of the launch with the coilovers.

now up front this is were the traction is at. you want to put the weakest and tallest sping in there that you can find. moroso posibly.

why you ask. so the front end sags as low as you can without hindering the driving capabilety to much. as far as the tallest. the taller spring keeps on lifting the front of the truck higher than the shorter springs. idealy you want a spring that will be weaker than what you have and make the truck set lower than what it does now but keep on lifting higher than you have now. springs that are taller usally have more coils. springs that are weeker usally are made of thinner wire. you could use a 6 cylender spring. in know on camros this is an ideal set up. but on pickups they may be the same spring. don't heat springs to shorten this is dangerous and is not what we are after.

when drag racing disconet the front swaybar this limets travel. cut off the a-arm rubber stops for more travel. i would remove them if you are going to drag race but for the street/strip leave a little rubber so the font end dosnt bottom out so hard.

as far as moving things to move weight the fuel cell and battery relocation is good idea. moving engine back is also good idea. raising engine will also help, a lot easier weight transfer. but i would first start with the springs before i would move engine. anyway i hope this helps.

again let me know what find out about those coilovers i would know what to use but have not gotton that far in project still fitting in roll cage.

thanks andrew

03-30-2005, 04:16 PM	#40
57sailplane Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Nebraska Posts: 583	suspension i emailed tom a long while back. i think he said he was running 150 lbs coil overs. not sure what brand. let me know what you find out. on size and brand because if it works why fix it. i have done a lot of research in the area of traction. everything i have found out so far i am using to build my 67 shortbox stepside. what i have found is first put back those stiffer springs in the rear or go with the coil overs. it use to be thought you want squat in the rear but in reality you want rise in the front to transfer weight to the rear. now by putting the those softer springs in the rear you cause chassis roll from front to back and thats what were after but the time period that the rear is squating from starting height to fully squated hite is actually the time were no weight is being transfered. with these soft springs this time frame is the same as a totally stiff set up (no weight transfer) at this point and if the tires break loose to a point of ablitoration during this time you gain nothing. now when the suspension is fully squated this is were the traction begins. all weight movement from the front and inertia is transfered to rear tires. but if the tires are burning off it is to late. some squat is permisable if tire just break loose then hook. but ultimatly you want no squat and front end rise for total bite. you may need the softer spring in back to get the ball a moving but minimum squat is ideal. now wether you want total bite is another question cause some vehicals run faster with some tire spin cause its dosnt draw the rpms down as much off the line keeping the rpms in the power torque curve.. my set up will be rear coil over set up. with the stiffest antisway bar i can run. i will fine tune the sway of the launch with the coilovers. now up front this is were the traction is at. you want to put the weakest and tallest sping in there that you can find. moroso posibly. why you ask. so the front end sags as low as you can without hindering the driving capabilety to much. as far as the tallest. the taller spring keeps on lifting the front of the truck higher than the shorter springs. idealy you want a spring that will be weaker than what you have and make the truck set lower than what it does now but keep on lifting higher than you have now. springs that are taller usally have more coils. springs that are weeker usally are made of thinner wire. you could use a 6 cylender spring. in know on camros this is an ideal set up. but on pickups they may be the same spring. don't heat springs to shorten this is dangerous and is not what we are after. when drag racing disconet the front swaybar this limets travel. cut off the a-arm rubber stops for more travel. i would remove them if you are going to drag race but for the street/strip leave a little rubber so the font end dosnt bottom out so hard. as far as moving things to move weight the fuel cell and battery relocation is good idea. moving engine back is also good idea. raising engine will also help, a lot easier weight transfer. but i would first start with the springs before i would move engine. anyway i hope this helps. again let me know what find out about those coilovers i would know what to use but have not gotton that far in project still fitting in roll cage. thanks andrew Last edited by 57sailplane; 03-30-2005 at 08:58 PM.