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Old 04-28-2005, 10:05 PM   #6
71RestoRod
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Evergreen, CO
Posts: 494
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For the door loom, I used 5/8” rubber loom that I bought quite a while ago from a hot rod supply place… (sorry, can’t remember from whom now). I drilled oversized holes in the door and A-pillar and installed PCV grommets, then ran the loom through the grommets. I lined up the hole in the A-pillar with the existing hole that was inside the cab for the courtesy light wiring. I had to open up the existing holes under the dash to ~5/8” to fit grommets large enough for wiring both the power windows and power door locks. I actually drilled these from the outside in because I had already installed the AC box and parking brake). I also ran an extra set of wires to the regulator motor so that I might possibly wire switches in the center console in the future.

The trickiest part of the install was getting the side window and vent windows in. It’s a little nerve racking with fresh paint. I taped up the exposed paint for protection and basically lucked out in the end. I first installed the regulator with the switch, finished the wiring (I used 4-wire weather pack connecters on the window wiring for ease of future removal/maintenance) and wired the power door locks. I then installed the window seals and jam side channel. I dropped in the window, front side first and caught the front roller. There was just enough wiggle room to get the rear roller in with the window shoved all the way forward. With the window rolled all the way down, I unbolted the jam side channel and slid the window all the way back to make room to install the vent window. Then I installed the vent window, shoved the side window forward and bolted back up the jamb side channel. I just took my time and kept thinking it was worth it… it really was much more of a ***** than installing the windows with a stock regulator.

Vualla… Resto-mod doors!
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71 Blazer / GMPP ZZ383 / MPFI / 700R4 / 4-Wheel Disk / Ground-up frame off almost completed resto-mod
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