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Agree with the no fork procedure with the jack under the control arm. Don't hit on the top of the stud; hit the part that the stud goes thru. HARD. Hit the joint at 90 degrees from the direction of the stud.
You'll need a GOOD pair of wire cutters to remove the cotter pins.
Depending on your wheels, you may need to grind away the lower control arms. Numberoneson's '72 has 8-inch GM ralleys ('87 or older) and they rubbed the arms when the wheels were turned tight.
Don't get the adjustable track bar, it isn't needed on 4 inch. We didn't relocate the shocks either.
His '72 drives better than any truck these years that I've ever driven (I've driven my share). It's a short-step and has no bounce at all. I think we got the parts from GMC Pauls.
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'68 50th Anniversery LWB Custom Fleetside, '77 305 v-8, turbo 350, factory speed alert (still works), '71 drivetrain w/front discs. Some call it ugly yellow, others call it Ochre
'83 Jeep CJ-7, <80,000 miles, original owner
'04 Chevy Suburban, 4x4, 2500, 6.0 ltr, Predator Diablo programmer
'95 GMC K1500 Extended cab
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