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MARTINSR · 05-29-2005, 06:02 PM

Thanks Sean, here is a little more on the subject.

I often get asked "How to you get welds in a floor or other place with where the clamp can't reach"?

I use my Spitznagle with one of the three clamps on about 95% of my welds. You would be surprised at how many you can get access to by simply cutting away the junk you are removing anyway with the air chisel.

I do floors all the time on late model cars. I run a cut with the air chisel about an inch from the frame rail (unibody cars) and remove the whole center of the floor. Then I will cut a portion out on the out side of the rail to the quarter lip, even if it is only an inch of metal I am cutting out, it is enough to stick the clamp around the back of the spot weld.

In the photo below you can see where I have cut out the majority of the forward inner fender on this car. I then can reach all the spot welds. Some times I will drill them from the back when I can't get the tool in to drill from the correct side. On this very inner fender I remember on the lower rail I couldn't get it from the side of the panel being removed because of engine componants. I pulled the wheel off and drilled the spot weld out thru the rail. I then put the new part up there with no hole to plug weld (as at the other points) and plug welded the whole from the frame rail side INTO the new panel, worked like a charm.

The photo below is an example of now nice the spot welds look once drilled. I call it "unbolting" the panel it leaves such a nice base for reinstalling a part.

Brian

05-29-2005, 06:02 PM	#3
MARTINSR Registered User Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Boise, Idaho Posts: 6,031	More on the use of the tool. Thanks Sean, here is a little more on the subject. I often get asked "How to you get welds in a floor or other place with where the clamp can't reach"? I use my Spitznagle with one of the three clamps on about 95% of my welds. You would be surprised at how many you can get access to by simply cutting away the junk you are removing anyway with the air chisel. I do floors all the time on late model cars. I run a cut with the air chisel about an inch from the frame rail (unibody cars) and remove the whole center of the floor. Then I will cut a portion out on the out side of the rail to the quarter lip, even if it is only an inch of metal I am cutting out, it is enough to stick the clamp around the back of the spot weld. In the photo below you can see where I have cut out the majority of the forward inner fender on this car. I then can reach all the spot welds. Some times I will drill them from the back when I can't get the tool in to drill from the correct side. On this very inner fender I remember on the lower rail I couldn't get it from the side of the panel being removed because of engine componants. I pulled the wheel off and drilled the spot weld out thru the rail. I then put the new part up there with no hole to plug weld (as at the other points) and plug welded the whole from the frame rail side INTO the new panel, worked like a charm. The photo below is an example of now nice the spot welds look once drilled. I call it "unbolting" the panel it leaves such a nice base for reinstalling a part. Brian __________________ 1948 Chevy pickup Chopped, Sectioned, 1953 Corvette 235 powered. Once was even 401 Buick mid engined with the carburetor right between the seats! Bought with paper route money in 1973 when I was 15. "Fan of most anything that moves human beings"