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Hats Off To Larry
Steve,
I agree with Larry on this one. Change the master, leave the p-valve swap until spring. People will tell you all kinds of stuff on this subject, how this or that has been working on their truck for 20 years, etc. I have a few of those testimonials MYSELF. But it is BEST to use the CORRECT stuff and not just the CHEAPEST fix. ESPECIALLY on a TRUCK, too much rear brakes is a BAD THING. If you ever do a REVERSE fishtail (during DE-celleration) you will know JUST what I mean. Don't forget to bench bleed the MC. Take care, Mike
PS If you are trying to avoid doing the lines TWICE, it will be TOUGH, unless you just go ahead and do the WHOLE swap now. (I'm assuming that's why you are asking)
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'67 Chevy Iron City Beer Truck (9ft step)
'67 Chevy Panel Truck 467
'68 Short Fleet 305v6
'68 McLaren Ramp Truck
'68/'68/'70/'71 Burbs 292/366/402/454
'69 C-30 dump
'71 C-50 dump and church bus
'71 4x4 454
'72 Blazer (w/pop-up camper) $15 x-hooks
'66 Chevy II 194/Weber
'68 El Camino" 305v6
'69 Skylark 455 Buick
'70 Chevelle 427
'71 Cutlass W-31
'71 GTO 400 2x2
"The 51" Chopped '51 Chevy (409) my first car
OK Toad, we'll take 'em all... John Milner
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