Did you see my reply, in the other thread (Header Advice)??
Quote:
Originally posted by DaHateTank
I used the Hedman engine swap headers, when I put the 396 in my '72 Blazer. Had to put a SMALL notch in the right framerail, to clear the tube. The frame bulges out there, anyway. If the framerail was straight (ie. like a piece of channel iron) it woulda fit OK. The notch is REALLY mild, if ya didn't know it was there, you wouldn't see it (unlike the notches shown in the caddy engine threads )
My engine is moved forward an inch, to gain firewall clearance. (I don't like the hammer tactics.) If it was in the stock position, they mighta been OK w/o the notch, or maybe required a small ding.
On the other side, I had to put a ding in one tube, to clear the motor mount. I used the stock 350 mounts, big block spool mounts might have cleared.
Despite all these things, it took a whole 30 minutes, to change the headers, when they rusted out (about 7 years). all in all, Ive had alot worse times, with car headers, that were used in 100% the application they were listed for...
They were pretty cheap, and I actually was pleasantly suprised, by the fit...
Recently, I looked at a '80s Suburban, that had a 454 swapped in, He used Hooker Super Comps, and they looked to fit pretty good, as well... Im pretty sure his engine is in the stock location, with factory parts (He has a couple big block parts trucks)
HTH
-M
|
Also, I had to make up some pretty tight bends, to clear my trans crossmember. I used Hooker mandrel bends, 180 degrees, cut in the middle of the bends, reversed and welded.
Further, my clutch linkage is mostly custom fabbed, so I don't know how well the stock clutch linkage would work. Hedman says the stock BBC pieces will clear. I didn't have them, so I can't vouch for this...
The Hedmans are cheap ($99), but seem to fit and work pretty well, IMO...
have fun
-M