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**basketcase** · 12-09-2005, 01:46 PM

Yes. They both work and fit the same. Chevy used parts from both vendors. The only reason you need to know which is if you are replacing a MC or a booster seperately. You can't mix them. You need a Bendix with a Bendix ect. I have a Bendix with the Bendix logo stamped in the booster under the MC. Hard to see unless you take it off or can get your head down there. I have seen Delco-Moraine stamped in the same location. Originally one was painted black and one was gold tone. I'm not 100% which way it was so I won't say. I have not seen a marking on the MC but you can see a difference side by side. I think that the push rod depth is different which is the deciding factor.

You will need to get the power brake firewall mount and rod pivot assembly with the pedal rod from a donor truck. Not available aftermarket. It's easy to remove once you find one at a junkyard. It must be from a 1971-1972. !967-1970 are shorter mounts and the disc brake booster will not clear the firewall. I just converted my 1969 to discs but I avoided having to change the firewall mount by using a new '67-70 Bendix booster and a '72 Bendix MC. My truck had power drums originally.

You can get a booster/MC assembly in either Bendix or Delco from NAPA for about $135. Don't trust a used one with your life. If your prop valve is working ok now you can re-use it. They are available remanufacturered from most anywhere for $109. exchange with a core charge of up to $30. Since I didn't have one I bought a new one from CPP for $75. These are their manufactured parts and don't look exactly like original but fit and function the same. They come with the short hard lines, brake switch and wiring pigtail.

I'm not sure if your short hard lines from the MC to the proportioning valve are the same with std or p/b but they are available in all of the catalogs. Very hard to make with those short tight bends.

One more tip. Do not use a drum brake MC with discs. Those big single piston calipers require more fluid volume than a drum brake MC can move. Braking will really suffer in this case. I know this portion of my reply doesn't apply to you but someone else may be temped to try to save a little money. A proper booster/MC is a lot cheaper than new front sheet metal/grille/ bumper ect.

Tom

12-09-2005, 01:46 PM	#7
basketcase Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Edgerton OH USA Posts: 633	Re: Who made brakes in 72? Yes. They both work and fit the same. Chevy used parts from both vendors. The only reason you need to know which is if you are replacing a MC or a booster seperately. You can't mix them. You need a Bendix with a Bendix ect. I have a Bendix with the Bendix logo stamped in the booster under the MC. Hard to see unless you take it off or can get your head down there. I have seen Delco-Moraine stamped in the same location. Originally one was painted black and one was gold tone. I'm not 100% which way it was so I won't say. I have not seen a marking on the MC but you can see a difference side by side. I think that the push rod depth is different which is the deciding factor. You will need to get the power brake firewall mount and rod pivot assembly with the pedal rod from a donor truck. Not available aftermarket. It's easy to remove once you find one at a junkyard. *It must be from a 1971-1972. !967-1970 are shorter mounts and the disc brake booster will not clear the firewall.* I just converted my 1969 to discs but I avoided having to change the firewall mount by using a new '67-70 Bendix booster and a '72 Bendix MC. My truck had power drums originally. You can get a booster/MC assembly in either Bendix or Delco from NAPA for about $135. Don't trust a used one with your life. If your prop valve is working ok now you can re-use it. They are available remanufacturered from most anywhere for $109. exchange with a core charge of up to $30. Since I didn't have one I bought a new one from CPP for $75. These are their manufactured parts and don't look exactly like original but fit and function the same. They come with the short hard lines, brake switch and wiring pigtail. I'm not sure if your short hard lines from the MC to the proportioning valve are the same with std or p/b but they are available in all of the catalogs. Very hard to make with those short tight bends. One more tip. Do not use a drum brake MC with discs. Those big single piston calipers require more fluid volume than a drum brake MC can move. Braking will really suffer in this case. I know this portion of my reply doesn't apply to you but someone else may be temped to try to save a little money. A proper booster/MC is a lot cheaper than new front sheet metal/grille/ bumper ect. Tom __________________ '69 swb stepside in progress. '59 Corvette lifetime project Last edited by basketcase; 12-09-2005 at 01:51 PM.