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Originally Posted by Prerunner1982
1st problem, have to restart before it will stay running... sounds like perhaps your carb isnt set right, the engine should run at alittel higher rpm than idle until its warm, to keep it running. then when warm you can kick it down.. mine doesnt work as well... i also have to restart mine a few times..
2nd.. sounds like it may be a timing problems and it is causing it to diesel...
3ed.. hard to restart... what does it do? click? turn over slowly? nothing? it could be the start is getting to hot, common problem.. after it cools it will start fine...
i am by far no expert.. so hopefully one of the more knowledgable members (old timers  ) will step in and shine some more light on this.. |
I am leading to believe that this truck originally had TBI or some kind of fuel injection system. A friend of mine suggested that because there are so many holes that I have plugged and capped off. He suggested that someone possibly did an engine swap... if not that at a minimum removed the TBI kept the existing intake manifold and slapped a quadra jet on it.
Look at this image below:
See the little rubber hose with a bolt stuck in it? I few months ago, I replaced that little rubber hose with a bolt stuck in it with a rubber cap. Now today, I checked that rubber cap, and it was cracked... letting tons of air in. I replaced that cracked/broken rubber cap with a new one. In addition to that... I replaced all the spark plugs.The old ones were very nasty. The tips were all somewhat chalky white... and there was tons of oil on them... it was hard to tell... but most of the oil was caked on the threads... the engine does leak oil... from many places... (again... another problem I will work on.. but one thing at a time! LOL!!!) so I think somehow oil seeps in from the outside and just works its way in thru the threads. I don't think that the engine is burning oil... my exhaust is not very smokey at all... However, I am aware that my rings might be wearing. I did a compression test and the pressure started at 90 and then increased to a max of 120 after the second complete stroke... these readings were all the same within 2 to 4 lbs. Reading in the Chiltons... it tells me that after the first stroke cycle.. if the first reading is lower and then increases after the second stroke cycle and remains consistant after that... then that indicates that your have rings that are wearing out. To me, that seems that my engine is not quite worn out.... perhaps mid-life, maybe a little less? Eitherway... the engine isn't smoking or burning oil... from what I can tell...
Replacing the rubber cap and spark plugs... the engine seems to shut off better now. I am not sure if this COMPLETELY fixed that problem... but it does seems to cut off better... it doesn't act like it wants to keep running. I am thinking that rubber cap has more to do with it than the plugs... but I thought I would mention that as well.
The starter... yes, I believe that you are right.... after the engine is hot from being run awhile.... if I turn it off, and attempt to restart the engine.... it is very slow to turn over.... between the stroke cycles... it seems that the starter struggles to make it past the compression stroke... it can easily get stuck at the compression stroke and not be able to turn the engine past that stroke cycle.... waiting a few minutes... I can try again... and it might have enough power to turn it past that cycle... and turn the engine again very slowly all the way thru but quickly loose power and become able to turn the engine again.... waiting about 30 minutes... has more power.... waiting after an 8 hour day at work.... fine, turns the engine over very quickly.. has a lot of power.
So... maybe I should get a new starter.... that leads to another problem that I will discuss in more detail later.... but all the elecrtical wires are totally rigged up/ spliced, duct taped... etc.. I can take some photos and create a seperate post cover that problem later. I just wanted to mention it here briefly just in case it could be related to this problem.
Along with that... my carb had some issues as well... the electric choke was broken and or damaged. I replaced it with a manual choke and ran the cable into the cab, and mounted it near the headlight knob. Now... unfortunately, in the past, I never owned a carborated automobile aside from now owning this truck. So I am not sure if this is normal... but in order for me to pull the choke knob out all the way, I have to tap the gas peddle while pulling the choke knob. After starting the engine... it will idle high... I would guess 1800 to 2000 RPM's... I don't have a tac, but can take a stab at guessing. Now, I can let it run like this forever... (after restarting it three times). In order for me to get the engine to idle lower.... I have to give the gas peddle a good tap... giving the engine a little jolt of power. From there... some how it releases something and then the engine will idle normal. I don't know if this is normal.... it actually works out quite well for me though... in the morning, I go out... start the truck... go back inside, gather my things for work... go back out about five minutes later.... engine still in a high idle... and truck is warmed up.
Prerunner1982, thanks for the feedback and your help. I look forward to hearing back from you after reading my response.
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Originally Posted by piecesparts
Hard start----choking the engine to much will cause it to start and then die, due to not enough air through the carb. The fact that it dies, also can be attributed to the idle speed not high enough. You having to let it warm up before moving it, could again be tied to the choke setting being to much. The starting and the dieseling could be tied to the timing of the motor. Do you have a timing light? If so, what did you set your timing at, and did you set it with the distributor vacuum line removed. Are you still using the computer distributor, or has it been changed out for an earlier HEI distributor? The computer controlled distributor has a plug that needs to be unplugged to time the motor and in most cases it will not adjust past the recommended setting very well. I'm betting your timing is the major problem here.
If you are running an HEI or an aftermarket distributor that does not have the computer connected, then check to see if your timing is around 8 to 10 degrees BTDC and then connect the vacuum line and the timing setting will change. If the setting doesn't change then your distributor vacuum pull-off or the weights inside are bad or hanging up.
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piecesparts, please look at the photo above and the two photo below to help me identify what kind of distributor I have:
I do not have a timing light. I am interested in purchasing one and think I might get one next time I am at the auto parts store. I hope that these photos help you better help me! I look forward to hearing back from you after you read my response.
Guys... thanks again for your feedback. You guys were very quick to send me a reply. Thanks!
Garry