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LONGHAIR · 03-10-2006, 11:24 PM

This is a very complicated job ..........lots of steps. It's not brain surgery but there is a lot involved. First it takes a special socket to get the wheel bearing nuts/rotor off of the spindle. Then comes removing the spindle itself. This can be an extra special chore, especially if it has never been off before. It can be done with a soft hammer (brass/lead) but the best way is with a special adapter that threads onto the spindle and to a slide-hammer. It can still be very tough. After that, you pull out the axle and you are pretty open to removing the knuckle. Pop the tie-rod and loosen the nuts on the ball-joints. The big hammer comes into play again. With some downward pressure (prybar) against the knuckle hit the sides of the housing where the tapered shafts go through until the knuckle pops loose. Remember to leave at least one nut on by a few threads so it doesn't fall completely apart. Now the the knuckle is separated from the truck you need a press to remove/reinstall the new ball-joints.

When you are ready to put it back together you need another special socket. This one is a 4 prong socket that adjusts the upper taper sleeve. You back the sleeve off a few turns and then tighten the lower ball-joint first. Then torque down the upper taper sleeve. After that, you tighten the upper ball-joint. Re-install everything else pretty much in reverse of removal.

While you have it apart, it is a very good idea to replace the axle-joint. The original joints are not greasable and they get rusty and stiff. There are newer versions that have grease fittings. Clean-up and inspect the wheel bearings for wear and replace if necessary. Install a new inner wheel bearing seal, pack the bearings with grease and put the hub back together.

It's not impossible, but it is a lot of work for the inexperienced, especially considering that this is a "glossed-over" version. It assumes that you can figure out some of it by giving you the bigger steps.
All in all it requires A minimum of 2 special tools (and you would be better off with the 3rd) and access to a press and some time and mechanical knowledge.....it sure would help if you had someone to work with you on this. If not it may be to your advantage to pay someone to do this job for you. It is pretty hard to justify buying these tools for a one-time use............unless you plan on owning several of these trucks, or working on them for your friends.

03-10-2006, 11:24 PM	#2
LONGHAIR just can't cover up my redneck Join Date: May 2004 Location: Columbus OH Posts: 11,414	Re: ball joints This is a very complicated job ..........lots of steps. It's not brain surgery but there is a lot involved. First it takes a special socket to get the wheel bearing nuts/rotor off of the spindle. Then comes removing the spindle itself. This can be an extra special chore, especially if it has never been off before. It can be done with a soft hammer (brass/lead) but the best way is with a special adapter that threads onto the spindle and to a slide-hammer. It can still be very tough. After that, you pull out the axle and you are pretty open to removing the knuckle. Pop the tie-rod and loosen the nuts on the ball-joints. The big hammer comes into play again. With some downward pressure (prybar) against the knuckle hit the sides of the housing where the tapered shafts go through until the knuckle pops loose. Remember to leave at least one nut on by a few threads so it doesn't fall completely apart. Now the the knuckle is separated from the truck you need a press to remove/reinstall the new ball-joints. When you are ready to put it back together you need another special socket. This one is a 4 prong socket that adjusts the upper taper sleeve. You back the sleeve off a few turns and then tighten the lower ball-joint first. Then torque down the upper taper sleeve. After that, you tighten the upper ball-joint. Re-install everything else pretty much in reverse of removal. While you have it apart, it is a very good idea to replace the axle-joint. The original joints are not greasable and they get rusty and stiff. There are newer versions that have grease fittings. Clean-up and inspect the wheel bearings for wear and replace if necessary. Install a new inner wheel bearing seal, pack the bearings with grease and put the hub back together. It's not impossible, but it is a lot of work for the inexperienced, especially considering that this is a "glossed-over" version. It assumes that you can figure out some of it by giving you the bigger steps. All in all it requires A minimum of 2 special tools (and you would be better off with the 3rd) and access to a press and some time and mechanical knowledge.....it sure would help if you had someone to work with you on this. If not it may be to your advantage to pay someone to do this job for you. It is pretty hard to justify buying these tools for a one-time use............unless you plan on owning several of these trucks, or working on them for your friends.