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What special-k mentioned is what I think the killer of K5/suburban rear window regulators. People complain about the cables breaking on the power units, but they wouldn't break if the rollers and slide tracks weren't wiped out. Same thing goes for the manual cranks too. The pot-metal crank arm snaps when someone tugs with all there might to raise or lower a window that is stuck on the tracks.

Mine is a manual setup, but wouldn't close the last two inches to the top at all when I got it. I got another regulator out of the boneyard and got new rollers/rivits from the Chevy dealer (they still have them, just search for a 91 k5, power/manual are the same). sorry I don't have the part #'s.

Still, my rollers were shot. They were ground flat on one edge just like a "D" shape. The rollers had worn flat over time due to the rust buildup on the bottom edge of the tracks (1 per side). The K5 tailgate isn't known for being watertight and moisture can get to the tracks and settle in the bottom of them. The rust buildup makes for a rough surface to run over and eventually the nylon rollers just wear down. Once worn they stop rolling but try to slide over the crustyness sometime getting stuck altogether.

Once I put the new rollers on my freshly greased boneyard regulator I cleaned the tracks out with a wire wheel on my drill and greased the snot out of them. I did that over a year ago and I can still crank the window down and up with minimal effort.

Get the rollers/rivits and grease those slide tracks!