[jmil1974]

Meathead is right, JL's are excellent subs. You can't go wrong with them, Polk, or Boston. They're my favorites. I like the Polk and Bostons for speakers too-- which line depends on your budget. Head units -- I like Alpine and Eclipse. Amps -- this one is key. First off, get a quality brand. Here's the ones I would and have bought. McIntosh, a/d/s , PPI, Alpine, Xtant, Fosgate. I looove my current a/d/s the p640.2. They have great amps for one amp systems - compact, clean, powerful, accurate, the whole bit. Mc's are top notch and top dollar but you should never have to buy another amp. Similar with a/d/s. For the money, I like Alpines for mids/highs and Fosgates for subs. Phoenix GOld amps are good, especially for subs. PPI is made by the same folks as a/d/s just a notch down the price pole. Excellent amps for all speakers. Xtant, also top notch for any application. I like EQs by Alpine, Kenwood, and Audiocontrol (if you're going all out).

Match your amp's RMS output to RMS output of your speakers/subs. Using the above brands assures that rated power = real power. NOT true with all brands. Clean power is more important than max rated watts -- marketing hype. Figure out how much volume you need (preferences, loudness of truck, tightnes of cab, etc.) and choose power accordingly. Few folks need more than 100 watts per front speaker (get components for the front). Wattage for subs depends on selection of sub and enclosure. Sealed boxes tend to be more accurate and "tight" but require more power. Vented and esp. bandpass are more efficient and louder but more narrow in their abilities. A quality enclosure makes a HUGE difference as does sound deadening in the cabin.

Bottom line -- figure out your budget and priorities (loud, clear and accurate, balanced, bass, bare bones) and how much crap you're willing to do yourself and willing to put up with. If you go ebay and do lots yourself, you should be ablt to assemble a wonderful system for $1000 - $1500, possibly quite a bit less.