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shelby987 · 06-21-2006, 10:13 AM

Here are two links to posts I made during my install, one deals with an interference issue you will run into with the trans cross member when trying to hook up your headers to an exhaust, the other deals with issues I had with the carb/intake.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=200407
http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=198709

Known problems
-Make sure the intake and header surfaces are square and true (prone to leaks due to out of flat issues.....carb problems due to loss of vaccum)
-to run a 4bbl carb you will need to make up a cable throttle linkage (I can take more detailed pics if you want to mirror mine (very backyard mechanic at the moment.....all home depot supplies).
-if you run PB you will likely have interference issues with a 4bbl carb (I have a 3/4t booster, a 1/2t might give more wiggle room, I only had 1/8-1/4")
-you will likely need a smaller diameter air cleaner regardless to clear the booster, I bought mine at murray's discount auto for $10.
-If you have a manual transmission, you can work around your Z-bar for your clutch, but you will have to have the headers in place, then re-install the bracket and z-bar (bit tricky, as you will read below, a helper to hold stuff up top and down below at times will really help)
Getting the whole thing put together is a bit more difficult than you might think, a helper will make a WORLD of difference, you have to essentially put both on at the same time, since they use the same bolts to mount up to the head, I ended up using two milk crates to hold the headers in place, but if you bump the headers with the intake, you need to start all over again (only have 1 dowel pin for each header). If you have the clearance to the booster, it would likely be easier to install the carb after the intake is mounted, because of my lack of clearance, I had to install as a set, otherwise the carb would be cocked to the side, and wouldn't slide onto the intake studs.
Also, I replaced my original hardware with new bolts and grade 8 washers, you can do this for all but 2 of the pressure washers, as they compensate for a thickness variation.
I would recommend torqueing it all down, go get yourself a bear, then go torque them again, I used a line fitting wrench, as the additional contact on all 6 corners let me put a little more torque on the bolts without rounding them out.
Lastly, make sure you fire it up at least once with open headers....might spur you to put some cut-outs on the exhaust!

06-21-2006, 10:13 AM	#2
shelby987 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Just outside Durham, NC Posts: 894	Re: 68 Inline Intake and hedder ? Here are two links to posts I made during my install, one deals with an interference issue you will run into with the trans cross member when trying to hook up your headers to an exhaust, the other deals with issues I had with the carb/intake. http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=200407 http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=198709 Known problems -Make sure the intake and header surfaces are square and true (prone to leaks due to out of flat issues.....carb problems due to loss of vaccum) -to run a 4bbl carb you will need to make up a cable throttle linkage (I can take more detailed pics if you want to mirror mine (very backyard mechanic at the moment.....all home depot supplies). -if you run PB you will likely have interference issues with a 4bbl carb (I have a 3/4t booster, a 1/2t might give more wiggle room, I only had 1/8-1/4") -you will likely need a smaller diameter air cleaner regardless to clear the booster, I bought mine at murray's discount auto for $10. -If you have a manual transmission, you can work around your Z-bar for your clutch, but you will have to have the headers in place, then re-install the bracket and z-bar (bit tricky, as you will read below, a helper to hold stuff up top and down below at times will really help) Getting the whole thing put together is a bit more difficult than you might think, a helper will make a WORLD of difference, you have to essentially put both on at the same time, since they use the same bolts to mount up to the head, I ended up using two milk crates to hold the headers in place, but if you bump the headers with the intake, you need to start all over again (only have 1 dowel pin for each header). If you have the clearance to the booster, it would likely be easier to install the carb after the intake is mounted, because of my lack of clearance, I had to install as a set, otherwise the carb would be cocked to the side, and wouldn't slide onto the intake studs. Also, I replaced my original hardware with new bolts and grade 8 washers, you can do this for all but 2 of the pressure washers, as they compensate for a thickness variation. I would recommend torqueing it all down, go get yourself a bear, then go torque them again, I used a line fitting wrench, as the additional contact on all 6 corners let me put a little more torque on the bolts without rounding them out. Lastly, make sure you fire it up at least once with open headers....might spur you to put some cut-outs on the exhaust! Attached Images __________________ 1969 SS 350 Camaro Sold 2008 1970 3/4T K20, stock height with 33's, 250 I6, 3 on the tree, and locked front and rear 4.10's 1980 Chevy Malibu 2 dr Sold 2007 1993 Olds. Cutlass Ciera Wagon Traded 2006 2003 Saturn L200 w/5pd. D/D My list spans 5 decades with One common thread.....GM! Last edited by shelby987; 06-21-2006 at 10:17 AM.