[piecesparts]

I have had some experience in the 383 field. I have had two motors made into 383s and there are defintie positives and negatives. Don't get me wrong, I really like the torgque a 383 makes and the response on the low end is phenominal.
What you have to consider, is the time and machine work worth it to you. I am betting that your block is what is referred to as a "Heavy Block", that is where there is a lot of material inside for machining. The way to tell this--is to look at the front block area (where the numbers are stamped) and see if the flat spot is a long metal piece that goes all the way up to where the intake meets the block. That is GOOD, the other style blocks can be machined, but they are lighter and don't take abuse well.

Look at setting yourself up for a motor that can run on the regular or midgrade fuels of today, or you will hate yourself later. I am presently at 9 to 1 in compression ratio, but the cam and heads make up for it. I am running DART II Sportsmen heads with the runner smoothed, but an aluminum head would allow you to go higher in compression , without detonation problems. The Vortec heads make some awesome power and I am working to get a set of those onto a TPI motor for my 91 Silverado. They can be purchased refurbished for about $500.00 a pair. BUT then you have to get the intake to fit that head--keep that in mind.

The cam is the whole trick to a 383, what is rough running and responsive on a 350 will be mild on a 383 (size does count). I am running a Comp Cams roller cam setup (#XR264HR-10) that idles fairly rough at the stoplights, but when turned loose it kicks hard. This required me to have a 2400 stall converter, so that the truck would sit at the stoplight without pulling it through while the brakes were set. I am also running a Performer RPM intake with a Performer Thunder AVS carb (650 CFM). I get a fair 14.5 to 15 MPG on the highway with a 700R4 tranny and 3.73 gears. Make sure you get the exhaust opened up to take the extra HP and keep the motor breathing well. I run an HEI that is set at 36 degrees TOTAL ADVANCE in timing and the air cleaner is a 4" K&N filter for free air intake.

I am running flattop pistons with a forged crank in this motor. The last motor had a SCAT crank in it and it stood up well, but when the #3 rod broke and made big holes, I scrapped it due to the dings on the journal and the fear of failure later. I also put in H-beam rods for strength, don't want a break in round two. I was running down the highway after a little 135 MPH run with a Camaro and the motor gave out.....Dang the luck.

I would build another today for my next project, but I am trying out some LS-1 ideas for my 68 Chevy truck project.