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**MikeB** · 05-03-2002, 07:40 AM

Stroker asked the right question. Also, what rear axle do you have, or plan to use? Here's what I learned building mine: 1.) If you use standard rods and rod bolts you'll need to grind a little metal off some of the rod bolt heads for cam clearance. An alternative is to use a smaller base circle cam. The best way to go is to use a rod, like a Lunati, that has the clearance built-in. I beleive SCAT and Eagle make similar rods that are less expensive than the Lunatis. Make sure to use 5.7" or 6.0" rods, not the stock 5.565" 400 rods. They create too much "angularity." 2.) A mild cam in a 350 is a VERY MILD cam in a 383. You can probably get away with 216-220 degrees intake duration, even with a 3.08 axle. Just make sure you have enough static compression for the cam. Too little compression for a late intake closing point and you'll make less torque. Even with my mild 210/210 cam I run 9.3:1 static compression, and can use regular gas. Of course, I achieved this with a .005" deck height and a detonation-resisting .043" quench height, but that's another story. A good 383 reference book is "John Lingenfelter on Modifying Small-Block Chevy Engines." He discusses rods lengths, rod clearance, cams, etc. It's $12 at Amazon.com.

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MikeB
69 C-10 Fleetside, mild 383, Dart Iron Eagle heads, Crane Energizer 266 cam and 1.6 roller rockers, Edelbrock Performer manifold and 600cfm carb, HEI w/ MSD components, 1986 front spindles/disc brakes, Vintage Air in-dash.

05-03-2002, 07:40 AM	#9
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,665	Stroker asked the right question. Also, what rear axle do you have, or plan to use? Here's what I learned building mine: 1.) If you use standard rods and rod bolts you'll need to grind a little metal off some of the rod bolt heads for cam clearance. An alternative is to use a smaller base circle cam. The best way to go is to use a rod, like a Lunati, that has the clearance built-in. I beleive SCAT and Eagle make similar rods that are less expensive than the Lunatis. Make sure to use 5.7" or 6.0" rods, not the stock 5.565" 400 rods. They create too much "angularity." 2.) A mild cam in a 350 is a VERY MILD cam in a 383. You can probably get away with 216-220 degrees intake duration, even with a 3.08 axle. Just make sure you have enough static compression for the cam. Too little compression for a late intake closing point and you'll make less torque. Even with my mild 210/210 cam I run 9.3:1 static compression, and can use regular gas. Of course, I achieved this with a .005" deck height and a detonation-resisting .043" quench height, but that's another story. A good 383 reference book is "John Lingenfelter on Modifying Small-Block Chevy Engines." He discusses rods lengths, rod clearance, cams, etc. It's $12 at Amazon.com. ------------------ MikeB 69 C-10 Fleetside, mild 383, Dart Iron Eagle heads, Crane Energizer 266 cam and 1.6 roller rockers, Edelbrock Performer manifold and 600cfm carb, HEI w/ MSD components, 1986 front spindles/disc brakes, Vintage Air in-dash. __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 36 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- converted from 250-six to roller cam 350, Vortec heads -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB, 305, TH350C -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!