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Old 01-07-2007, 03:06 AM   #14
69TowRig
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 897
Re: which posi unit to get?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1968SWBBigBlock View Post
As far as the GM units not being any good. GM used alot of makes over the years, Dana was used in the 4x4's, Detroit was used in the 14 bolt rears in the 90's but Eaton has produced the largest number of units for GM. I have spent alot of time the last 3 months researching center sections and the common theme that came from 99% of the folks that build rear ends or sell rearend products is you can not beat the Eaton units. FYI the Moroso center section is a heavy duty Eaton unit. Not reccomeded for street use.
The problem with what you are saying is that Eaton used to provide a clutch-type limited slip to GM WAY back in the day, then at some point when they developed their Gov-Loc unit GM started using those instead. Most of what you will find in the used market are Gov-Locs and not the Eaton Posi (which is their trademarked name for their clutch-type units). The eBay diff in question here is a Gov-Lock, not a "posi" as most people so wrongly use the term.

The Gov-Loc has gathered more than a few nicknames over the years, one of which being the Gov-Bomb due to it's tendency to fail at the worst time. It is not a clutch-type unit, instead it uses a centrifugal weight system to lock only when a significant amount of wheelspin occurs on one side or the other. However, above a certain RPM of the carrier assembly, the unit will unlock altogether. You can visit traction.eaton.com to see how it works. It's great for the boatramp but not for someone wanting to harness some horsepower. An Eaton Posi would be a much better choice, as the clutches in those set a pre-load and you have to exceed a breakaway torque (difference between left and right wheel traction) for it to slip.

Someone asked for an opinion on the Detroit. For a street truck, I wouldn't do it. Drag racing or off-roading would be fine ( I have a Detroit in my Nissan and a Lock-Right in my Blazer) but the tradeoffs in road manners for DD use on a 2wd would be pretty bothersome to most.
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-Chris
Building a stripper, one part at a time: 1969 K5, 307, 3spd, 3 seats, hard top. Added Pwr Discs, Pwr Steering, Aux Battery, T-case Skid, Lighted Sidemarkers, HEI, Lock-Right Diff, ECE Class IV Hitch, 32" MT/Rs. Parts to Install: Hand Throttle, Console, Tow Hooks, Dual Horns, AM-FM, Dealer Swing-Away Tire Carrier, Gas Tank Skid.
Also building a 1950 Willys CJ-3A and off-roading a 2001 Nissan Frontier on 1-Ton Portals...

Last edited by 69TowRig; 01-07-2007 at 03:11 AM.
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