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stllookn · 11-13-2002, 08:21 PM

I scrapped a cab that was better than that because it was going to be over $300 in parts before I started cutting, welding and grinding. I did not have to do the roof or cab sections around the drip rails. I would be very worried about the condition of that cab seeing the rust in the different spots. How are the rockers, corners, floor, kick panels, cab supports and firewall? I would check all these areas with an ice pick to see if goes through.

My gut reaction is to get another cab...and I love to weld! You could have $2000 on this cab and still have marginal areas that will rust out in 5-6 years.

Just my opinion...and that is worth what you paid for it..LOL!

Sorry...how to fix? Cut out all the rusty sheet metal and weld in new sheet metal.

11-13-2002, 08:21 PM	#5
stllookn Saving 1 truck at a time! Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Kent, WA Posts: 6,465	I scrapped a cab that was better than that because it was going to be over $300 in parts before I started cutting, welding and grinding. I did not have to do the roof or cab sections around the drip rails. I would be very worried about the condition of that cab seeing the rust in the different spots. How are the rockers, corners, floor, kick panels, cab supports and firewall? I would check all these areas with an ice pick to see if goes through. My gut reaction is to get another cab...and I love to weld! You could have $2000 on this cab and still have marginal areas that will rust out in 5-6 years. Just my opinion...and that is worth what you paid for it..LOL! Sorry...how to fix? Cut out all the rusty sheet metal and weld in new sheet metal. __________________ '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary) Last edited by stllookn; 11-13-2002 at 08:23 PM.