View Single Post
Old 04-19-2007, 10:49 PM   #4
jeffspower
Well, Whoop-dee-do!
 
jeffspower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Easton, Mo. pop.- me & scarcely a few others
Posts: 2,302
Re: Help w/ rear main seal replacement

Remove the oil pump & rear main bearing cap. Push on one end of the upper 1/2 seal piece with a flat screwdriver to start slipping it around as far as you can so it is protruding out the other side. Then you can pull it out with a needle nose pliers. Be EXTREMELY careful not to nick the crank's surface with your tools! The new seal will come with a little plastic "shoehorn". Be careful when you open the seal package, it can fall out & you may never find it back. This plastic shoehorn is used in the groove of the seal, so when you rotate it back in, the block's rib it installs on won't gouge into the rubber of the seal. Be sure to oil up both sides to make it slip in easier. You should be able to get it almost all the way in working it CAREFULLY with your fingers. The last little bit you can push home with a flat nosed punch. Make sure you put it in "lip" side towards the INSIDE of the engine. The cap side of course is a no brainer. Notice how the main cap/ block mating surfaces will be a place to seep oil if you bolted it back up without sealer- make sure that little mating area on both side of the cap is clean & oil free, & put a very thin amount of sealer on it, just up to the edge of the rubber seal. Too much sealer can squeeze out getting into the rubber seal lip & create a leak. Put some oil on the lower 1/2 main bearing & draw the cap down evenly, then torque to specs. Same goes for the oil pump.

Hope this helps!
__________________
'68 GMC shortbox 4x4 350/SM465/T221- bought it in '83 SOLD

'72 K20 500 Cad/TH400/NP205 SOLD

'92 Chevy 2500 6.5 mech TD 4L80E crusty daily driver

'72 Monte Carlo... sweet low mile toy

'11 Dodge Challenger IE 392 6spd... midlife car
jeffspower is offline   Reply With Quote