Quote:
Originally Posted by Huck
The floor must be supported by good torque boxes and rocker panels in place--welded in with the top on to insure proper alignment. You also must have decent body to frame mounts in place and properly shimmed to prevent the body from sagging when you remove the top. THis is a common issue with ALL convertables---. The bodies were not built for convertable design but were done as an after thought--mustangs--chevy's---just about every vehicle. Only those built as a convertable only are usually stiff enough to avoid the door sag issue.
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good post. BUT if the body came off with no shims and many random diameter and length bolts, what do you measure to properly shim the body mounts. I was just reading the sheet that came with my body mounts tonight and it says to keep all the shims that may come off. mine has no shims LOL i was lucky it was all bolted to the frame.
Now i am very confused, not just a little drunk.
#1 I am about to put the body back on the frame with new mounts.
#2 was going to put the top on and start to replace the sheet metal
BUT
but but
all this shim talk now makes me think i should shim the body I have no rocker panels, front floor or torsion box to speak of they are kinda there but not really doing anything but rusting. (I do have the replacements)
GRRRRR
so loosely fit the body mounts, put the top on, doors on, then torque the body mounts? and try to line up what i can?????????????
Or get the frame level on the stands(shim up the frame temporarily).... then level/shim the body to the frame?
then the sheet metal?
ouch I'm hurting now.
At work i deal with less than a 1/16" tolerance with what i fab. and I try not to bring it home but a 1/16 is big to me......
any one who has dealt with this your knowledge is appreciated.