The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network - View Single Post

piecesparts · 11-06-2007, 09:40 PM

I have tried many different things and the fact of the matter, I have found that most are more hype than polish. Don't get me wrong, the liquids do take the dirt out of the metals and give a "Brighter" finish than they so called before condition, but if you want to really poish aluminum, then you have to go at it with a plan. First of all is the aluminum really dull and corroded, if so then start with any one of the liquids to get the dirt out of it OR do as I did, purchase some small buffing pads from Eastwoods (or Sears) and polish out the metal using the buffing compounds that you can get at many supply outlets (even Truck stops) Those truckers are always polishing their rims and fuel tanks. I use what is called a "RAZORBUFF" that is about 3" in diameter and real thin, attached to a die grinder. Using it along with a buffing compound the metal is taken to a shiney condition in a very short order. I did four 15" X 8" aluminum rims in about two hours (start to finish). That was starting from a really dull finish to a shiney completed condtion. To keep my rims finished I use Mothers aluminum polish, with a Mothers polishing ball to clean the metal and then finish with the Mothers Billet polish to give it a mirror shine. After the metal is cleaned, I seal the pores with a metal sealant from Wizards Products (there are other brands available---I found the Wizards to be easy to use and works great) to keep the dirt and water out of the metal. my wheels usually stay clean all summer. I use this on my billet Weld rims and my American Racing billets, also.

To prep aluminum to get it clean, if it is a coated or a standard aluminum piece, start by using a 600 grit wet-n-dry sand paper and then follow it up with a 1500 grit and then a 2500 grit paper. Use WD-40 as a wetting agent for the sandpaper. Once the finish is started the buffing then can happen with the compounds and a shine is not far away. I have built a lot of aluminum brackets for my projects out of standard aluminum strapping and pieces just that way and it works, with little effort---just time.

11-06-2007, 09:40 PM	#10
piecesparts Parts and more parts Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Lebo, Kansas (middle of nowhere Posts: 6,821	Re: Aluminum polish... I have tried many different things and the fact of the matter, I have found that most are more hype than polish. Don't get me wrong, the liquids do take the dirt out of the metals and give a "Brighter" finish than they so called before condition, but if you want to really poish aluminum, then you have to go at it with a plan. First of all is the aluminum really dull and corroded, if so then start with any one of the liquids to get the dirt out of it OR do as I did, purchase some small buffing pads from Eastwoods (or Sears) and polish out the metal using the buffing compounds that you can get at many supply outlets (even Truck stops) Those truckers are always polishing their rims and fuel tanks. I use what is called a "RAZORBUFF" that is about 3" in diameter and real thin, attached to a die grinder. Using it along with a buffing compound the metal is taken to a shiney condition in a very short order. I did four 15" X 8" aluminum rims in about two hours (start to finish). That was starting from a really dull finish to a shiney completed condtion. To keep my rims finished I use Mothers aluminum polish, with a Mothers polishing ball to clean the metal and then finish with the Mothers Billet polish to give it a mirror shine. After the metal is cleaned, I seal the pores with a metal sealant from Wizards Products (there are other brands available---I found the Wizards to be easy to use and works great) to keep the dirt and water out of the metal. my wheels usually stay clean all summer. I use this on my billet Weld rims and my American Racing billets, also. To prep aluminum to get it clean, if it is a coated or a standard aluminum piece, start by using a 600 grit wet-n-dry sand paper and then follow it up with a 1500 grit and then a 2500 grit paper. Use WD-40 as a wetting agent for the sandpaper. Once the finish is started the buffing then can happen with the compounds and a shine is not far away. I have built a lot of aluminum brackets for my projects out of standard aluminum strapping and pieces just that way and it works, with little effort---just time.