[piecesparts]

WOW, my thought would be--36 grit is pretty tough stuff. Unless you want to go deep and do a lot of metal finishing later, I personally would not go below a 60 grit. I for the most part use 80 grit, for heavy work and then follow up with 125 to 320 grit for any paint prep for a repaint. This is all through using my D&A sander. The paint sticks to scratches better than a smooth finish, but you don't want it so bad that it shows through the paint as it shrinks to the car. Many body shops will do this to get the job done quicker and most people will trade the vehicle in about a year, so they don't see the paint scratches under their high dollar paint repair. There is nothing I hate more than a high dollar CHEAP job.

If I were going to do a lot of body filler shaping, then I go with a 60 grit, on a sanding board, to get the shape and then go to finer paper to get the finish. Remember the more scratches you put in, the more you have to remove after the work is done.

Some people use wet sand paper to get paint ready for refinishing and that is no bad thing. The Wet or Dry sand paper is used with water to keep the paper from filling up with paint material, as you sand the body piece. This is simple and easy to do. I use wet or dry paper for many things, including prepping aluminum material for polilshing.

For wet finish sanding (after the paint has been applied) I usually start with a 600 grit and work my way to 2500 grit, then I start the task of polishing or buffing out the paint finish.