Quote:
Originally Posted by Rokcrln
Yep pic #2 is what I was trying to get at on page one  I like what you are thinking with your layed out door you are drawing on BUT, keep in mind were your top edge of the door is in relation to the door hinge pivot. Any part of the door that is in front of that pivot point will swing inward when the door is opened and if this part of the door happens to be the top of the window post (pic #1) the door will bind up and not open. This is the reason for the filler pieces in most crew cabs. Also I have looked at the door hinges on a 65 (not sure if they are the same or not) that I was working on for a co-worker and I think they will work for a rear door if the jamb and door are set up right. On the 68 crew cab that I built I just used the stock burb rear door hinges and reworked the jambs and it turned out great.
Kevin
LFD Inc. |
You hit the nail right on the head, I have been trying to make this work for the past few days, and that is the exact problem I run into. You have to mainain the door on or behind the pivot point, or it dives in when opened. I'm still going to try to see if I can pull it off without a filler, but I'm going to be making some cardboard doors tomorrow, and change the pivot point to see what the minimum filler is I will need. I could always suicide the rears, but I am just not happy with the operation and install method of the hinges I have seen.