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Old 02-14-2008, 02:21 PM   #22
Super73
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 2,841
Re: Got the rear fixed!

There is no article persay.. What I did was took a 8.8 apart. Cut off the axle flanges..

Take the 10 bolt and make a jig. Take 2 pieces of flat stock for the tube ends. Drill th 4 holes in to the flat and bolt it up. Take a piece of square tube and cut the bottom and top to length and weld it to the inside of the flat stock. There is your width.

Take and make a couple arms that come off the square tube and come in contact with the axle tubes about 4-6" in from the axle end. This will support the axle tubes when you weld on the new ends.

Cut the tubes off the 10 bolt fairly close to the center section.

Take and ID measurement of the 8.8 tubes. Lathe the 10 bolt tubes down to that. Now the 10 bolt tubes should be able to slide in to the 8.8 tubes, this adds strength (one thing to know though is the 8.8 tubes get smaller towards the center section).

Weld up the seems.

I opted for 9" ends to get rid of the c-clips. You can weld them up at this time.


Now, I did not use a TQ arm. Call Madman (LS1 tech sponsor) and order up some Pete Z bars. You need to have a hotchkis like square tube control arm though. They come with brackets that weld to the rear and have a tube that bolts to the control arm. It turns your LCA in to a ladder bar basically.

They allow you to adjust pinion angle with the new top bar.

No more TQ arm allows for a larger drive shaft..


Doing this changed the instant center of gravity and antisquat dramatically. The rear would rise and hook way hard on the street..

Last edited by Super73; 02-14-2008 at 02:24 PM.
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