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Old 02-29-2008, 09:48 AM   #34
PrerunnerRob
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: San Jose
Posts: 847
Re: Strong Arms (tubular) vs. Stock A arm

Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI View Post
First.... Welcome to the site. I've used CPP parts w/positive results so I would say I'm a loyal customer.

I really don't get this logic so maybe you can shed some light. Someone that would buy a-arms that help lower their truck is going to be concerned w/clearances. The 'down-side' (pun intended) to lowering w/OE parts is that more shims are required to regain proper alignment. Those extra shims widen the track width which in turn reduces some of that clearance lowered vehicles need.

If you're making arms from scratch anyway...... why not shorten the lower arms vs. lengthening the uppers? Shorter lower arms will keep the track width near stock or maybe even narrow it slightly, either way helps clearance issues.

Just to be clear, I'm not picking on just CPP.

Air-Ride did something similar. When their Strong-Arms first came out the lower a-arm shock mount was the lowest part of the arm...... meaning the first thing that would contact pavement. The explanation was that when these arms were prototyped, the truck used stock spindles so there was no issue w/the mount being too low.

How many guys swap in an air suspension that aren't trying to get that sucker lowwwwwww?? One of the first & easiest ways to get low is using drop spindles. I know there's alot of guys w/older trucks that don't/won't swap to discs. But I'd being willing to bet there's more 'classic trucks' out there that do have discs & use drop spindles for lowering.

Of course, ART's arms have now been revised to correct this 'flaw'.
I thought about the shortening the lower instead of lengthing the upper before, and the only thing I could come up with was having to do with steering components. At some point you will just run out of steering tie rod adjustment, and by lengthening the uppers you are placing the spindle back into the vertical plane(when viewed from the front ) that it was previously in. I guess you could manufacture a shorter outer tie rod end, but his would add to the cost of a kit. Just my ideas on this, but maybe I am missing something entirely.
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