[greg64]

Hi oldblue. Finally catching up on the threads and noticed your problem. From reading all the above information, I think you're right that ignition is the problem. Also, the weak spark is definitely a clue. The 8V at the coil with the key on sounds right. I'm not sure if you actually confirmed that the coil has 12V when cranking (using the extra wire that runs from coil + directly to the starter).

If you disconnect the coil high-tension wire from the distributor and stick a spark plug in it (now there's no juice at the plugs in the engine), you should get a nice blue spark across the gap while cranking (just stick the plug on the intake somewhere so it can make a ground). I have a plug I use for this test that has a huge gap (about 3/16"). This is because it's way harder for electricity to cross the gap inside the cylinders where the pressure is way higher than free air. So, the much larger gap simulates the conditions in the cylinder. If the spark colour is red/pink, the voltage is too low.

If this test shows that you have weak spark, try cleaning the points with a small file, as was previously suggested. You might want to check the dwell and gap as well. If this still doesn't improve your spark, you might want to try a different coil, just for testing.

If the spark looked good when the plug was connected directly to the coil, try putting the test plug in the #1 cylinder wire and reconnecting the coil to the distributor. The spark SHOULD look the same as it did before. If it's weaker, then your distributor cap/rotor and wires are suspect.

Good luck, and when you're done screwing around with this, do yourself a favour and put in a Pertronix or swap the distributor to an HEI. I can't understand why anyone would still use points now. So troublesome! And even when points are new, they still can't produce anywhere near the spark that an HEI can (will jump a 1" gap).

Let us know how you make out.