Thanks Longhorn, Z-72.
It was (more or less) the fuse.
For anyone who encounters similar problems, my fuse was good and my multi-meter showed voltage going to the light switch... but only when the switch was in the off position.
Turns out the fuse contacts were sufficiently corroded that when I put a load on the circuit by turning on the switch, the voltage dropped to zero. Very confusing--especially since once or twice everything briefly worked.
I cleaned up the fuse contacts and now everything works great.
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Carlos
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