[justcuz]

I could be wrong as it has been a while, but I think all the brake pedals were the same. It had a hollow shaft and if it was a stick shift the clutch pedal went through the brake pedal and was held on with a flatwasher/circlip on the throttle pedal side. I think it stayed that way until Chevy went to bigger brake pedals for automatics.

On the carb, mine blew out while I was out of town and off roading in my 1963 K-10 4x4.(My avatar truck) I was out in the country and the thing started running bad, had a heck of a time figuring it out until I noticed the exhaust exiting under the rear of the carb base plate. Those gaskets are pretty heavy and impregnated with a piece of metal, like an old exhaust manifold gasket. My temporary fix was to remove the gasket completely and just bolt the carb directly to the intake. I was up above Lone Pine. It sealed better than with the blown out gasket. When I got home, I removed the intake manifold, cleaned out the heat riser holes, tapped them with a pipe tap and threaded the allen head plugs into the top of the manifold. Basically the intake below the carb then acted as a stove to heat the incoming fuel mixture but did not pressurize the gasket area in the cast baseplate of the carb. I also did not install the restrictors for the exhaust in the intake manifold gaskets, so the exhaust was freeflowing in the crossover in the intake. I had dual exhausts on this truck and the benifit of leaving the intake manifold restrictors out was that it kept the carbon buildup in the intake to a minimum. I realized this later when I installed a 4 barrel manifold and carb. The 4 barrel manifold by the way, does not apply heat directly to the base of the carb, but works like a stove, just as the modified 2 barrel intake did. As a side note, I did the same plug modification on my 4 barrel intake for my 401 Buick engine in my boat.