Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony@AirRideTech
Whenever trailering a vehicle I will always recommend to trailer it at ride height. When it is at ride height the suspension is doing its job and is absorbing the dynamic load. As far as leaks are concerned, you should have it leakfree enough to not have to worry about it bleeding down on the straps. If you dont then you should spend a little time with some little kids bubbles and hunt em down. If you are trailering deflated then the 4x4's or what ever you have on the trailer deck are taking the load, if it is an enclosed with a wood floor you will probably be replacing floor pieces after a while or ... if you have it deflated on the suspension components themselves, you will end up breaking s**t.
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Tony, As a valued ART customer for many years I will always trust your advice but this time I have to disagree on a couple points. I will go along with the idea that a good air system will hold air longer than ANY segment of a road trip but the wierdest things can happen and a sudden loss of pressure can allow dangerous slack in the tie downs. The purpose of the blocks is in fact to keep the suspension from being bottomed out and prevent breakage of components. The blocks have not had ANY adverse affect on either of my trailers and both have their original decks. My 8x16' utility has 2x10" pressure treated lumber in place since I built it in 2001. My 8x16' tilt deck has 2x8 pine boards and only suffers from oil stains since the early '90's. Neither is enclosed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by N2TRUX
Josh, I think it depends on the application. I have never towed with a one ton truck, or an enclosed trailer. All of these make a difference.
What I can verify is that towing with a 1/2 ton pick up on a bumper pull tandem trailer I had much more of a controlled load with the rear suspension of the towed vehicle free.
I will freely concede that what works best will depend on the application.
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Both trailers are 8000# tandem alxe with leaves running titan ST 15" tires and pull off the bumper/hidden hitch.The most amount of miles towing to shows has been with a lowered 91 chevy half-ton with a c-notch and air shocks. Some of the duty was done by a 92 1-ton crew cab dually on air bags, some with my 88 1-ton crew-cab 4x4 stock suspension, and most recently my '89 GMC 2wd 1-ton dually with factory tow package rear.
All of those different tow-pigs with about 10 different show vehicles ranging from stock suspension to static drop, air, and hydraulics. It has been my experience and OPINION that on the blocks has proven best for me and the guys I show with that tow the same way.
One LAST point from me I promise: I have a CDL and did a short stint driving commercial truck. ANY professional trucker will tell you that they will take a secure load over a shifting load everytime. I'll let the trailer suspension do it's job.
I've run the risk of this becoming a round in circles argument and I don't want that at all. N2 thank you for keeping the discussion in the realm of respectable debate. I've seen a lot of these things degenerate to simple name -calling and such. I wanted to clarify my experiences and opinions one last time. I'll continue to do what has worked for me. I'm glad you have found something that works for you. To anyone that has continued to read this far try it both ways on a shorter trip and see what fits your needs.
Josh