[trukman1]

The rear seals shouldn't be hard just make sure you have them lined up with the hole and that they are flush. Seals can be driven in using such things as sockets for the "seal install tool" on small items or you can use larger items that fit the size of the seal...DO NOT TRY TO START THE SEAL AT ONE SPOT AND SLOWLY WORK AROUND IT TO GET IT IN!!!WILL NOT WORK!! My last seals for my 1-ton were put in buy setting the hubs on a pc. of plywood, setting the seal in place and covering with a board to hammer on (used a dead-blow hammer). One good whack will seat'em if they're right and eat'm if they're wrong so tap lightly till you see it start right, at least till you've done'em for awhile.
As for the rearend lubrication, just keep in ming that you may need a special additive for a posi-unit etc. Look at your options list (builders sheet) in the glovebox to tell and be sure to add the recommended additives, if any are required. If all else fails, your can raise the rear of the truck to see if you have a posi rearend. With both tires off the ground and the truck supported on good JACK STANDS!! (NO BUMPER JACK STUFF)If both tires turn the same way when you turn one by hand with it off the ground it's got a posi unit. If you turn one tire and the other turns the oposite way you have a non-posi or "open" differential. Hope this helps. I probably went into things you already knew but I wanted to try to cover everyting I could think of. Good Luck and remember, above all else, KEEP IT SAFE! Never get under a lifted vehicle unless secured by good jack stands on a firm, level surface. Take care, Gary